South from Rome

Leaving Rome we sailed south to Ponza, with its harbour beneath high cliffs, and then east towards the Bay of Naples. At Ischia two young men came alongside in a small RIB to ask about Malua and where we had come from. They returned first with a cold bottle of local wine and later with fresh buffalo mozzarella. It was one of those unexpected acts of generosity that stay in the memory long after a cruise.

Procida, Capri and Amalfi

Strong wind kept us tucked into Cala di Corricella on Procida for three days with plenty of chain out. When conditions improved we moved on past Capri, the Blue Grotto and the Faraglioni before sailing for Amalfi.

Amalfi was a highlight. We secured Malua among much larger yachts and explored the town’s narrow streets and steep hillsides. One morning we followed the old steps and road up the valley until we were high above the harbour. The next day we took the bus to Ravello and decided to walk back down — a decision our knees were questioning well before we reached the bottom.

South to Tropea

Farther south, good stopping places became harder to find. At Marina di Scario the mooring arrangements were poor enough for Malua’s stern to touch the wall. Tropea was much better: a new marina beneath an old town reached by 196 steps. It was my birthday, so we celebrated with local seafood and wine on two consecutive evenings.

From Tropea we headed for the volcanic Aeolian Islands — Stromboli and Vulcano — on our way to Sicily.