The Aeolian Islands

We left Tropea for Stromboli. As we approached, the wind came onto the nose and we motored into the lee of the smoking volcano. The island rises steeply from deep water and anchoring was difficult. Our anchor eventually pulled from 40 metres, so we picked up a mooring instead.

At four in the morning we set off around Stromboli hoping to see the red glow that gave it the name “lighthouse of the Mediterranean”. We saw only a dull grey cloud above the summit. From there we continued through Panarea, Salina and Lipari to Vulcano, where the crater, hot springs and sulphurous mud pools dominated the anchorage.

Cefalù and Palermo

From the Aeolian Islands we sailed about 50 nautical miles south-west to Cefalù and anchored outside in five metres with good holding. Ashore, the Norman cathedral and the old streets made the stop worthwhile.

Palermo was quite different. The harbour was crowded, but we eventually found a welcoming berth. The city’s open-air market seemed to run for miles through the old streets — fish, meat, clothes, fabrics, hardware, fruit and vegetables. A bus trip to Monreale took us to its great Norman cathedral and cloisters, another memorable part of Sicily.

Eastwards to Greece

We continued around Sicily before setting out from Syracuse for the passage to Pilos. Greece and the Peloponnese were next.