Cuba was a major destination in its own right during the 2013 Caribbean cruise. I arrived at Santiago de Cuba after leaving Île-à-Vache, Haiti, then worked west along the south coast before rounding the western end of the island and reaching Hemingway Marina near Havana.
Arrival at Santiago de Cuba
On the passage from Haiti a fish-trap line caught around Malua’s propeller. I stopped the engine, dropped the sails, clipped on with a safety harness and went over the stern with mask, fins and a sharp bread knife. Two cuts freed the boat and the propeller, and Malua was quickly under way again. Having thought through that sort of emergency beforehand made the response straightforward.
West along the south coast
Leaving Santiago, I followed the south coast through shallow water, coral reefs and cays. Navigation demanded attention because the safe channels were limited and coral heads were much easier to identify with good sunlight. Cuban charts became particularly useful.
At Cabo Cruz I passed a small fishing boat about 15 nautical miles offshore whose crew were signalling for help. I dropped the sails and motored back to them, but the engine part they needed was not something I carried. Farther west, inside the reef near Cayo Blanco, I anchored in a deep protected lagoon and I explored the cay by RIB.
Around the western end
The final long leg towards Havana went around the western end of Cuba and into the influence of the Yucatan Strait and Gulf Stream. Light winds had been forecast, but wind against current produced short confused seas and hard sailing.
Havana
After 25 days cruising Cuba, I reached Hemingway Marina a few miles west of Havana. I spent two days walking the city, using local transport and exploring streets such as Obispo. Havana brought together old buildings, tourism, everyday Cuban life, music and the history that had made the country such an important destination for this voyage.
From Hemingway Marina the next passage would take Malua across the Gulf Stream to Florida and the United States.
