Into the Aegean

After the Peloponnese we sailed into the Greek islands just as the Meltemi had settled in. We knew about the wind, but experiencing it from a cruising yacht was another matter. It might blow for a few hours and ease, or continue for three or four days. In a secure anchorage that was manageable; with poor holding it was another story.

Living with the Meltemi

We reached Mykonos during a lull, only to be pinned on the southern side of the island for four days. When we tried to make a run for it the wind returned during the morning and we were very pleased to find a quiet bay that evening, even though it was well away from our intended course.

For the next couple of weeks the wind largely dictated the cruise. We moved downwind from island to island, looking for shelter rather than trying to force a route northwards. Milos, Naxos, Paros, Mykonos, Ios, Amorgos, Patmos, Lipsi, Leros and Kalymnos were among the islands and anchorages along the way.

By Amorgos we had been sailing in Greece for more than a month. The western side had given us wonderful sailing and places ashore; the Cyclades had taught us considerably more about wind. From the eastern islands we prepared to clear Greek customs, change flags and sail into Turkey.