Original account
2013-01-06 — Bequia Anchorage
2013-01-07 — The Northern Grenadines
2013-01-07 — Bats not Cats in the Cabin
2013-01-21 — St Vincent Main Island
2013-02-17 — Martinique – A Windward Island
2013-02-25 — Simpson Bay St Maartin
2013-02-25 — Virgin Gorda – British Virgin Islands
2013-03-14 — Trellis Bay Full Moon Party – British Virgin Islands
2013-03-14 — Anegada The true coral island
2013-03-14 — The Baths at Vingin Gorda
2013-03-14 — The BVI Channel Islands Cooper Island
2013-03-14 — Rhone Wreck BVI Islands Salt Island
2013-03-15 — The Bight Norman Island – BVI
2013-03-15 — Cane Garden Bay. Tortola BVI
2013-03-20 — Charlotte Amalie US Virgin Islands
2013-03-20 — Culebra Puerto Rico
2013-03-26 — Salinas Bay and San Juan Puerto Rico
2013-03-26 — Playa Santa and Boqueron in Puerto Rico
2013-03-26 — Casa del Campo Dominican Republic
2013-04-03 — Boca Chico Dominican Republic
2013-04-03 — Salimas Bay Dominican Republic
2013-04-03 — Ille a Vache Haiti
2013-05-24 — Santiago de Cuba
2013-05-24 — Cabo Cruz
2013-05-24 — Cabo Blanco
2013-05-24 — Cayo Grenada
2013-05-24 — Cayo Algodon Grande
2013-05-24 — Cayo Breton
2013-05-24 — Cienfuegos
2013-05-24 — Cayo Largo and Cabo San Antonio
2013-05-24 — Havana Cuba and Hemingway Marina
Bequia Anchorage
2013-01-06
I always thought that the Greek Islands where the charter sailing capital of the world until I arrived in Admiralty Bay in Bequia and tried to anchor. There are charter boats everywhere and mostly they are catamarans. The bay has a number of mooring buoys that the majority of the charter fleet attach to. The balance try to anchor near to their friends which almost by definition means on top of the cruising yachts who have spaced themselves well apart amongst the moorings.
When we arrived in Bequia I chose a spot that was away from the other yachts but well into the bay. Some distance ahead was a submerged plastic buoy. Not for one moment did I suspect that it was in fact a mooring. I dived to check my anchor with its 45 meters of scope and found it well into the course sand and ahead of the blocks of this so called mooring which had about 40 meters of heavy chain and an equally long line from the chain to the surface. The swing distance would have been about 60 meters and within reach of a mooring up wind and my vessel.
One evening a boat boy came by and said I was on top of his mooring and would I let out more chain so he could put a vessel on the mooring. “OK bring a boat and I will ease back and see how it worked.”
The following evening, Christmas eve a boat – 50 foot arrived so I let out more chain so that my port bow was at least 10 meters from their stern. Alls well and good if the wind continued to blow from the NE. An Australian boat then appeared and dropped his anchor just off my starboard quarter and let out about 35 meters of chain. Alls well and good if the wind stayed in the same direction. They then went off in their dingy leaving their boat unattended.
The wind changed ahead of a violent rain squall and I was left with two unattended yachts well within the swing radius of Malua. The OZ boat started to ride at its anchor back and forth. At one point I had to push it off with the short boat hook just to stop it from taking a piece out of my topsides. The British boat on the mooring was now pulling back on their chain and swing back and forth which left Malua had nowhere to go. Unfortunately neither boat did anything to change the situation and I became the meat in the sandwich. The wind then dropped and later swung back to the NE and we all settled down to a good Christmas eves party.
I had long ago given up on crowded anchorages in the Med so the day after Christmas we upped the anchor and sailed south out of the crowded anchorage BUT wait there is more. Read all about it in the new years eves edition.
The Northern Grenadines
2013-01-07
Bequia is about 16 nm north of the island of Canouan and only a few more miles on to the nature reserve of the Tobago Cays.
Having pulled up our anchor from the crowds of Admiralty Bay it was great to pull up the main again and head down wind for the wide open spaces of the open ocean. It was not to be not only were yachts leaving our anchorage but other were heading in our direction. Never the less after about 4 hour of great down wind sailing we rounded the way point along side Baleine Rocks and started to motor amongst the coral cays and shallows of the turtle reserve. It was great to be back in cruising mode in a tropical environment.
We approached Petits Ramea and Petit Bateau and the depth sounder was started to come up from the 20 meters to shallower water. We went round the south of the latter island into the anchoring area only to find little space in the shallow water and weed in the 20 meter depth. What can a person do? Just drop the anchor and hope to get a good hold. Not the first time but the second time the rochla took and Malua was attached to the ground.
The anchorage is a bit rolly in a funny sort of way because the swell is channeled through an opening in the reef and then enters the anchorage and bounces around causing a sort of chop – enough to upset a full glass of wine. There were about 60 boats in the anchorage with about a quarter on mooring balls. Most people has anchored well away from their neighbour. We had a peaceful night.
The following day we took the RIB to the outer Horseshoe reef and went snorkeling. The fish life was prolific in about 3 meters of water. On the reef I really had to control myself because under almost every rock in the crevices was at least one good size lobster. _ Once a crayfish diver always a crayfish diver. Being in a reserve Denny said I could not take any – how times have changes as I have git older. That did not stop me when I was young – did it Richard?
On our return from snorkeling we stopped at the turtle island and walked over the hill. We did not see one turtle in the bay but saw a few swimming by that evening.
Tobago Cays is a lovely anchorage but not one you would stay for more than a day or two because of the rock and roll.
The next day we upped anchor and took the southern exit out towards Union Island passing west of Palm Island.
We stopped at Clifton on Union Island anchoring in the north east corner of the bay just upwind of the reef in the middle of the bay. Here again there are moorings scattered throughout the anchorage severely restricting where a cruising yacht can anchor. A cause Chris Doyle is pushing to have the moorings registered and controlled. The town has a few good vegetable shops/stalls but not much more. The Anchorage Yacht Club and the Bougainvilla restaurant look like the only good places to eat however we skipped both and started on the pork chops from the Canaries. Just great.
We had decided to spend new years eve in Bequia so it was time to start to move north again. The next stop was Canouan Island in Charlestown Bay home of one of the charter companies. The bay was almost empty so we dropped our anchor in the NE corner of the bay. We were soon approached by a fisherman selling lobsters. The negotiations started and we finally settled on a price of EC15 plus a pack of cigarettes. That evening we took the Rib ashore and walked all over the southern part of the island followed by a dog who attached himself to us. Only when a larger group of yotties passed did he leave and follow them.
The island appears to be quite prosperous due to the establishment of a very upmarket resort on the northern part of the island and the major extension of the airport and landing strip. Almost every third house had an OCC vehicle outside presumably used by one of their workers. The charter base and the Tamarind Hotel Resort must also require workers and development. The bay is unfortunately open to the northern swell that seems to sweep round the eastern part of the island.
Now the long beat into the wind back to Bequia. We left early in the morning and set a course north of the Grand Cai and tried to make the 060 course to Mustique but with the wind coming from 080 to 090 we did not have a hope so had to make a few tacks before we arrived at Britannia Bay – Mustique.
We were now amongst the rich and famous not only on the land but in their mega yachts – sailing style. The harbour master approached and asked if we wanted to anchor at US$75 per night – more for a mooring buoy. We asked to stop just to eat our lunch of lobster so he said yes with pleasure. After a good lunch it was off again on a broad reach to pass between Quatre and Petit Nevis where the tide is reputed to run very fast. When we arrived it was relative calm so we passed with ease on our way to the southern most point of Bequia at west cay. Once we rounded it the wind was back on the nose and increased to more than 20 knots so on came the engine and we motored at 3 knots into the chop and wind the last 3 nm into Admiralty Bay just in time to celebrate New Years Eve.
Bats not Cats in the Cabin
2013-01-07
Dedicated readers will remember the two incident where a stray cat has come aboard Malua during the night. The one in Greece the cat was unknowingly shut into the aft cabin for three days and it then escaped when I went shore on a completely different island. The other was in France when I caught the cat in the cabin one night. http://malua.blogspot.com/2011/10/cats-in-cabin.html
Well last night I woke because something was wrong and moving in the cabin. Being anchored some distance from the shore I was sure it was not a cat. I got up and in the half light of the moon thought I saw something jump off the saloon table and move first towards the window then in a flash out the companionway. I immediately knew we had been invaded by a bat – birds cant see in the night.
While we were having drinks the previous evening I noticed a bat fly out of the trees along the edge of the high cliffs overlooking the anchorage and commented how large that particular one was much like the fruit bats of Australia.
The following morning it was obvious that the bat had come to eat the ripe guavas we had purchased while in St Vincent. It is much easier to wait for a yacht than fly the 28 nm to the next island.
Was it a magical moment on Malua
St Vincent Main Island
2013-01-21
It is time to move north out of the security of Admiralty Bay Bequia St Vincent and on to the main island of St Vincent. We had been warned of the fierce current and confused seas between Bequia and St Vincent similar to those we encountered when we arrived at night from Barbados. However when we put our nose out from around the point and pulled up the main all we found was 15 to 18 knots of wind and a slight swell. It was ideal sailing weather for the 16 nm to a small bay we had chosen to stay the night. But first we stopped in at Petit Byahaut to see if we could anchor there but it was too small and the swell was rolling in.
We motored in the relative calm north along the coast to Wallilabou. When we were at the entrance to the bay a fellow – Alex approached and offered us advice and a mooring buoy. We declined the mooring and said we would Med moor with a line ashore. We dropped the anchor in about 18 m of water and went astern. The trusty floating polypropylene line came out again and we were soon secure in the anchorage. A few EC to Alex and we were all happy.
Next was to secure a lobster. Soon a boat appeared with a wide selection varying in size from small to huge. I chose one, negotiated a price and took it on board. The fellow did not have change for the note I gave him so we agreed that he would return with my change after making a few sales.
He returned twice to the bay but ignored my calls to give me my change so on the third time I took the RIB over and came alongside asking for my change. He said he did not have any showing me two 100 and a 50. Well after a small but kind encouragement he produced a note for my change but not the right amount. With further inducement he found the exact change and handed it over to me. The other boat boys saw the financial transaction and as I drove away I got cheers of encouragement. That boat was not from this bay's village and they did not like the interlopers.
The next day as I walked on the dock I was greeted with smiles and laughs about the financial transaction. They were pleased someone had at last highlighted the dodge practice which these fellows seem to pull almost every day! It gave the locals a bad name.
The bay is more famous than its lobsters because it was the Caribbean setting of Pirates of the Caribbean with Johnny Depp. There is still some of the original material – scripts, venue sheets and buildings used in the making of the movie which is well worth a visit.
One can clear in and out of St Vincent at a small office on the dock at 4:30 pm. There is no Immigration but that does not seem to matter. We walked to the adjoining town to the Police station and they did not have a form nor a stamp for the passport so the net effect is we got nothing other than good exercise walking to the village.
Martinique – A Windward Island
2013-02-17
Martinique is the most northern of the Windward island in the Caribbean chain. It is known as the Island of Flowers but I did not see many. The island with the exception of a few years has been French since colonization and still is very French. What that means is that a cruiser travelling north can stock up on all things French which is of course wine and cheese. When I arrived soon after New Year the wine shelves had been cleaned out and the new stock had not arrived from France however over the week I stayed the stocks were replenished and I was able to get some good Cotes du Rhone and some Bordeaux in bulk and in bottles. The wine cellar is full and I now have to find an additional storage.
The main harbour is Marin which is just a mess of boats, at anchor, on mooring buoys and attached to many miles of finger wharf. I chose to anchor near the entrance but quite close to the Leader Price dinghy dock. Yes this supermarket has its own dinghy dock for cruisers – now that is service although the shelves are just bulk supply so one does not get the refinement of the Carrefour just up the road not that this supermarket is a patch on the ones actually in France but better than the "supermarket" I have seen further south.
After a few days of selective shopping at the above two and Dia I was ready to return to St Anne a large bay just to the east which is a very pleasant anchorage although some times crowded around the dinghy dock and restaurant which has free wifi.
I decided to start the trek north with a short sail along the southern coast. I passed HMS Diamond Rock – that is right a rock that was declared a ship around 1800. The crew would hassle the French navy as they came sailing by. Napoleon was incensed by this rock of a ship and sent one of his admirals to deal with the situation. Realizing that he could not take the rock by force of arms he used his good understanding of British sailors and sent a small vessel loaded with lots of rum. The sailors captured the vessel and set about sampling the goods where upon the French attached and killed or escorted away some very drunk British sailors. Villeneuve – the admiral was the same person to take on Nelson at Trafalgar but he underestimated the leadership of Nelson and on that occasion every man did their duty.
I turned into the great bay of Grande Anse D'Arlet for a second time and picked up a mooring buoy. I found Harlequinn with James and Roni and Wyuna with Bruce and Gina on board.
The next day I set off north for the most northern anchorage of St Pierre. The shore is very steep to so there is not much sand to drop the anchor and the wind seems to swing to the north which means that you lie parallel to the beach. rather disturbing if you dropped the hook when the wind was off shore and the it swung to the north but any way I seemed to get it right. A large super yacht got it wrong and had to leave just before dawn as they were swinging onto the beach.
I went ashore and took a walk to see how the volcano of Mt Pelee had engulfed the town and its 30,000 residents in 1902. One can now see the old lava flow down the side of the mountain. Today it is fertile green strip from the top of the volcano right down to the sea. the lava swept all before it killing all but two people – one a prisoner trapped in the goal. When and how he was released is not said but he went on to be a major attraction with the Barnems Circus.
The modern town is a two street development running parallel to the high overhanging cliff. If you walk down the road you can find some old ruins and the jail. Quite interesting. I understand there is a road up the face of the cliff which one can walk on. It leads to a water channel similar to those in Mediera but I did not have time to find it. Other say it is a pleasant walk as it follows the contours of the mountain slowly dropping towards the sea. Another day.
I had an early night and took up the anchor as it was getting light to head towards Dominica and the most southern of the Windward Islands.
Simpson Bay St Maartin
2013-02-25
Malua is at 18:02.00N 63:05.91W in Simpson Bay in St Martin on 18/02/2012
I left English Harbour and sailed up the west coast to Deep Bay. Here I walked to St John – the main town to get some fresh vegetables and to spend the last of my EC money. The walk is quite a long way so I took a bus out of town then was given a lift.
I had planned to sail to Nevis the next island in the chain and continue to St Christopher and St Eustatius but the weather window was only open for two days before a strong wind front set in for four or more days so I cooked three meals of mince meat from the freezer, set it in the fridge and set the alarm for 1:00 am.
There was little wind when I got up and set off out of the bay making sure I past by the sunken wreck. I hit the open sea and still only 15 knots and right behind Malua. It was a great sail down wind. I adopted my usual night watch position and watched the night sky pass over head. Dawn came and the sea was still flat and I was making such good progress that I would have arrived at St Barthelemy – St Barts just after 14:00. I looked at the chart and found St Martin was only 14 nm further north and I would reach that before 16:00. The wind was consistent and from astern so lets make progress and move further north while the going is good. This Caribbean is getting boring.
On entering the southern waters of the island I saw some water rise from about 400 m ahead. Just a glimpse out the corner of my eye. When I looked again a whale was just off Malua's port quarter, just slowly moving southwards. I did not expect to see whales in these water. A great thrill.
St Martin is divided Dutch side and a French side however the Dutch have a very large lake connected to the sea by a channel but a lifting bridge restricts the entrance. The bridge would open in two hour time for inbound traffic, so I just hung about waiting in line with about ten other vessels waiting to enter the lagoon of Simpson Bay.
Passing down the channel and under the lifting bridge reminded me of the locks of France however this time I had the mast up.
Just as I turned to port to select a spot to drop the anchor Pedro and Carol from Jack Tar came along side to invite me to share a beer at a waterside bar. What a great welcome after a 16 hour sail.
A magical moment on Malua.
Virgin Gorda – British Virgin Islands
2013-02-25
Malua is at 18:30.316N 64:21.845 near Saba Rock in Virgin Gorda part of the British Virgin Island on 23/02/2013
One can stay for weeks in Simpson Bay in St Maartin. There are chandlers, services, restaurants and more importantly other cruisers who just seem to spend week after week in the same spot. One entered the bay via the lifting bridge – in my case at 17:30 and can choose between the empty bay in the Dutch side or the less convenient and crowded French side. Where you anchor is where you check in. I did the Dutch side for a week and the total experience cost US$40. Some people just go through the bridge and check in on the French side and the cost is EU10 or so. Do check in if you anchor in the Dutch side. My friend on Pinball Wizard was boarded by the Dutch authorities and asked for his papers which he had completed properly. A sailing cat had the authorities along side for more than an hour then both vessels left together to destinations unknown.
Well I checked out for a further US$5 and I was free to leave. I went through the bridge at 11:00 rather than the 16:30 outgoing and anchored in the roadsted then returned in the dinghy for some money, food and to access the slow wifi at the yacht club. Having done all that I returned to Malua with a kilo of Uruguay beef to prepare a stew for the passage westwards. It had great chunks of meat that turned out, with a bit of French wine to be three great meals, one of which I had that night and the next the following night. Still one remains in the freezer.
I had prepared Malua for the voyage across the Anegada Passage with the weather window open for a good passage on Thursday/Friday. The seas and wind were predicted to rise on Saturday. I set off at 1:00 am Friday from the bay outside Simpson Bay. The moon was up, the wind from the east and for most of the passage very little swell. It was the best passage I have had all season. In fact it was so good I read, fixed the dinghy and cleaned up in my cabin – sorted my 12 T-shirts.
I arrived at about 15:00 and was coming down the channel when the AIS picked up the yacht Distant Shores which I met at Navy Services in Port St Louis France in July/August. They had crossed with the ARC and have been sailing up and down the Island chain with paying guests.
The AIS system I have – Watchmate has four profiles that one can select, Ocean, Coastal, Harbour or at Anchor. The parameter for the alarm and list of vessels changes from wide and many to few and only those within a mile of so with the at Anchor. I was able to see who was in the bay as I entered. It is a great facility if one wants to find a friend assuming they leave their AIS on while at anchor or coastal cruising.
Today I checked in for up to a 30 day stay. So far the water looks good and clear and the anchorages great although the traffic on channel 16 is constant with yachts calling marinas and restaurants so I will have to find a way to block out the chatter.
A magical moment on Malua
Trellis Bay Full Moon Party – British Virgin Islands
2013-03-14
Malua is at 18:26.94N 64:31.86W at Trellis Bay BVI
Virgin Gorda is a very secure and pleasant harbour but it is surrounded by high hill, bars and boats. It was time to move on and a recommendation was to attend the full moon party on Trellis Bay. I left in the late morning and sailed down wind along with Jack Tar however he chose the course close to the land and soon dropped back through lack of wind. I came round the north of Beef Island and dropped the main and motored into the entrance of Trellis Bay. The bay is at the end of the airport runway. It has an island in the middle of the bay surrounded by mooring buoys. The local retail community has got together to promote their community, the central theme is the full moon party held once a months. It draws many charter vessels and a good compliment of cruisers who try to find anchoring space between the moored boats: yachts, catamarans and cruisers. I was fortunate to find an opening and dropped the anchor, pulled back and I was set just ahead of a very large charter catamaran.
Along the shore are a number of shops and guest houses, The Loose Mongoose bar, the art centre and the main attraction the Hiho. They put on the show and party centred around a few large steel sculptures created by artist Aragorn. On Liams recommendation the Aussies would form a party, have the dinner and enjoy the evenings entertainment. As the sun set we had a brief chance to catch up on Gone with the Winds news and what they had been doing before YouNevaKnow,Jack Tar and Malua took up a postion at the end of a long table with the other group at their end. After a very ordinary dinner – we were served first so got hot bland food. I would not have liked to wait in line to be served at the end. Well the festivities begins. What we were all waiting for. A fellow wades out into the water and lit the wood in the three sculptures of tall people. It took about half an hour for it to flame up and burn sending embers high into the night sky. Then a drum roll and we turned our attention to a back lit screen where two women turned and tumbled from a trapeze to the sound of the thumping beat of loud music. This was followed by a number of dancers on stilts. A good time was had by all. A great marketing success and I am sure lots of rum was consumed.
I woke early to be intimidated by the boats swinging around me. I was abused by some woman on a cruiser insisting to have a large swing room as I pulled up my anchor and tried to find my way out of the mooring field.
Across the bay is Marina Cay a good anchorage but full after the party. I headed to the west of Great Camaroe to Lee bay hoping to find a quiet spot but only found strong swell and breaking waves. It was time to head out to sea and the calm of the open ocean.
I found myself on course to the Anegada Island which was only 20 miles away. My stay there is a story in itself
A magical moment on Malua
Anegada The true coral island
2013-03-14
Malua is at 18:43.37N 64:22.93W on 23/03/2013 at Anegada
The Caribbean island change is not coral but a line of volcanic islands rising out of the sea. Most have little sea shore on which one can anchor so the cruising is confined to a few beaches and harbours. It is therefore crowded and the only attraction is the land and the few towns and cities.
Now Anegada is different because it is a true coral and limestone island, rising only 10 meter above the sea level. Around the island is the horseshoe reef which extends 10 miles to the SE is close in shore on the north but the south it is almost 2 miles from the land and shallow.
One approaches Anegada from the south west hoping to find the port and starboard channel markets as indicated on the chart but no most are missing. You must remember that one is in the region b red right returning.
As I was approaching the channel a charter boat raced ahead of me hoping to get in first and get the last mooring buoy. I waved him ahead and followed him in. There are as of the above date two red and two green marks at the inside red mark the depth was only 30 cm under the keel but it get deeper – that is up to 2 meters under the keel as I got closer to the dock. Meanwhile the charter yacht raced ahead and right onto the reed extending saw from the dock. It went right up out of the water under full steam. No amount of stern drive was going to get it off. Two or three dinghies tried to assist but it was stuck. I had concerns of my own so I did not go over and help. Eventually after more than an hour someone tied a line to the mast head and pulled the yacht on its side and it came off the reef.
Now I had to find a place to anchor in sufficient water and with some holding. The fetch to the fringing reef was almost two miles away and the wind was increasing along with short waves. Not a great place to be if the sea really got up but I secured Malua and went ashore.
There are about six restaurants – Anegada Reef Hotel, Lobster Trap, Reef Lobster and Neptune's Treasure all offering the same menus…. Grilled lobster at 50 dollars plus a 12 service charge. Believe me they were all full from crews off the charter catamarans. Eight in a party placing their orders by 4:30. At one place I counted in excess of 40 lobsters cleaned and cut in half ,no legs ready for the grill. I don't know where they come from but I do know that that rate of consumption can not be sustained.
In the morning the waves had maintains their size and direction from the SE so it was time to get out of this shallow anchorage and head back to Virgin Gorda.
A careful exit at a very slow speed had me out the channel but not out of the shallow water which continue for more than 5 nm. Not a happy feeling sailing at 6 knots with only 8 m under the keel. I passed about 15 to 20 charter cats on their way to Anegada to have their fill of lobster.
A magical moment on Malua.
Sent from my ASUS Pad
The Baths at Vingin Gorda
2013-03-14
There is more to Virgin Garda's Saba Rock happy hour Painkillers at 3 bucks a glass – there is the free WiFi but there is even more and that is the large granite boulders scattered along the sea shore and piled high further inland. The Baths as they are know are very like Clifton Beach in Cape Town but here they are a nature reserve tightly controlled to save the environment. You are not allowed to anchor only pick up the limited number of mooring buoys and only permitted to stay 90 minutes. You are not swayed to take the dinghy ashore but must tie it off on a buoy and swim ashore. If a red flag is flying you are not supposed to go ashore although most people are colour blind.
I picked up a mooring ball on the north side of the field off Spring Bay. With fins I swam shore only to find a private beach with a sign indicating the direction to the Baths. I set off through the boulders but missed the path and soon found myself high up on top of these massive boulders. The drop down was a long way. I carefully tried to get round the boulders both going up and then down but there was no way out. I could hear the sea rushing between the boulders and headed towards the water but I was too high to get down so back again but this time try at a lower level. Finally I was on the sand as the water rushed in between the rocks… I had to get out of here because there was no way I could dive under the rock against the waves and get to clear water.
OK retrace my steps, slowly. It was more than an hour and a half when I climbed down off the boulders through the bush and onto the beach. A very stupid adventure to undertake alone but I was safe, calm and only a few blood spots. I jumped into the water. It never felt better. Now to find the right way to get ashore.
I took the dinghy south and tied it to the mooring buoy along with others and swam ashore through the large waves. The trail is very well set out with wooden stairs where they are needed and chains and ropes to assist you. A very tame experience from my earlier experience. Enjoyable and a must see part of the island.
Now it was time to see the other island in the channel and maybe dive on the Rhone wreck.
A magical moment on Malua
Sent from my ASUS Pad
The BVI Channel Islands Cooper Island
2013-03-14
Malua is at 18:23.133N 64:30.84W on 28/02/2013 on Cooper Island. Manchioneel Bay.
After my adventure at The Bath I was a bit subdued furthermore my left eye seemed to have something in it or may be while scrambling on the boulders I had got some of the juice of the Manchineel tree which is very poisons. There was a black shape foaling along with many tiny bubbles.
YouNevaKnow had picked up a mooring ball so I dropped my anchor astern of them and let out the usual 40 m of chain. It held fast and I was some distance off if the wind maintained its direction. We both went ashore and had a drink in the bar along with Jack Tar who arrived later announcing there plans to all at the bar because the speaker system was connected to the vhf CH 16. It was a very pleasant evening and we all retired to our vessels. The wind had by this time completely dropped off. Malua and the large cat YouNevaKnow were dancing with each other but not coming close enough for me to get concerned although I do think there was some concern on their boat. We spend a very quiet night with the two boats close but not touching. I had to go over the following morning to apologise for not moving the previous evening. Not a great show of seamanship.
I dived at Cistern Point which is sup post to be a great spot but I found it rather ordinary. I also investigated the cost of diving on the wreck of the Rhone – 80 bucks for a single dive plus hire of equipment. Well I will snorkel over it and see if I will return for a dive.
A magical moment on Malua
Sent from my ASUS Pad
Rhone Wreck BVI Islands Salt Island
2013-03-14
After the previous evening I found a wide open bay and dropped the anchor a long way from the shore and YouNevaKnow. I put the right in the water and motored about a nm round the south east headland to the wreck of the Royal Mail Steamer Rhone which went down in October and1867 when a hurricane suddenly blew up from the NW. They weathered the initial onslaught but when bringing up the anchor it got caught and it parted. They steamed off through the islands and the channel almost making it but hit the eastern tip of Salt Island. The vessel broke in two and sank taking most of the crew with her.
The wreck is on a slope so the stern with the large propeller and rudder is easily disable from the surface as is the drive shaft but the bow is in deeper water. I was able to dive down to look close up at the stern but the real scuba dive must be in the bow. 20 years ago it would have been a great dive but now it looks like a fattened hulk. I must saw I have been spoilt diving on the wrecks around the Cape of Storms so I was pleased I saved my money.
Salt Island it self is very interesting having two large salt lake in the centre from which in the past salt was collected. The hill overlooking the wreck and bay is an easy climb so I was up and down before the sun set.
Tomorrow I am off to seek pirate treasures.
A magical moment on Malua
Sent from my ASUS Pad
The Bight Norman Island – BVI
2013-03-15
Malua is at 18:19.13N 64:37.19W in the Bight on Norman Island in the BVI on 02/03/2013
The BVI is the closest place to tropical heaven an American can get if he wants to charter a yacht. They leave the cold of the northern winter and come south to the sun and wide open spaces of the US or BVI. They sail from one anchorage to the next BUT when they get there they anchor right on top of each other or pick up a mooring ball. The charter companies promote the use of the moorings as do the retail outlets and restaurants along the shores of the bays. The more balls the more potential customers who have holiday dollars to burn. At 30 dollars a night that is quite expensive if you are a long term cruiser so you have to anchor but where.
Anchoring in a mooring filled bay is difficult because a yacht at anchor swings differently to one attached to a ball. The people who put the moorings down do to to optimise the number in a given space. When it get to deep they stop so for a cruiser there is only deep water in which one can anchor. Often a difficult decision to try the deep water or trust that the wind will stay in the same direction all night and drop the anchor between the moored boats.
The Bight on Norman Island is a large almost enclosed bay just half a day sailing from the major charter bases. It is filled to capacity with moorings. On the day before and the day after the charter fleet change boats – the old crew leave and the new crew arrive The Bight is filled to capacity. There is not a single ball free and not enough room to swing a cat let alone a anchored yacht. At night the Pirates Bight and the William T floating bar thump to the music all through the night.
You may well ask why did I go to The Bight? It was in the middle of the week and the place was empty. The ships bar closed soon after sun set and Malua was able to drop and anchor in the mooring field and swing without a concern in the world. However I would not return and would not suggest any cruiser visits the place.
A magical moment on Malua
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Cane Garden Bay. Tortola BVI
2013-03-15
Malua is at 18:25.86N 64:39.49W at Cane Garden on 5/03/2013
The island of Tortola has by far the best anchorages of all the islands in the BVI. No matter from which direction the wind blows one can sail to a beautiful anchorage. Cane Garden must rank in the top three BUT if you read the small print in the cruising guide it will warn you about the northerly swell. If you see the boys surfing off the point leave the bay immediately. Great who surfs at night?
Malua and Jack Tar had on this occasion moored on the shore side of the mooring field. The wind was off the land and we both had sufficient swing room and what's more a good strong WiFi signal.
The first night was great and most of the second but I woke at 3:00 am to find the wind had come up from off the sea and both boats had swung round onto the lee shore. I was concerned but not worried until I saw some navigation lights appear out of the rain coming in through the dangerous channel entrance. They let comment and to my horror the yacht turned into the wind between Jack Tar and Malua and was about to anchor when I let out an almighty shout. You can't anchor there.
My voice woke Pedro and he'd added his concerns to the circling yacht. He came between Malua and the beach. Heaven knows how he did not go aground. I suggested he pick up a mooring buoy but no he dropped his anchor some way down the beach. When the boat settled the surf was just off his stern so he up his anchor and started to circle again finally coming to rest in the middle of the mooring balls.
I was back to bed in an attempt to sleep but no sleep came as the swell built at the point. Soon after dawn I was up but Jack Tar beat me out of the anchorage. It was raining, the wind was blowing on shore so while the waves where big at the point there was not a surfer in sight.
Was that a magical moment?
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Charlotte Amalie US Virgin Islands
2013-03-20
Malua is at 18:20.38N 64:55.76W at Charlotte Amalie on 9/02/2013
The only thing one can say about this town is that it has evolved from a pirate den to a den of pirate retailers catering for the patrons from the cruise ships that dock here each morning. Yesterday there where four large cruise ships in the dock with one just out side. Each must have at least 8,000 people on board who stream off as soon as it is along side. Half get into the local truck buses for a tour of the island while the rest move from shop to shop looking at what is on offer. It has no attraction to me although I did purchase a watch to replace my Longines not one the same for that would have cost me almost 1,500 us dollars but with a Citizen analog. It works and I now know the time!
The other thing that is good is that one can repro vision with all American food and things. Malua is not back up to cruising readiness and I am about to move west.
The real reason I spent so long in the harbour was I was waiting for Budget Marine to order in a C-Map chart module from the states. "It will take 3 to 5 days". Little did we know the package was sent of to China then back to the states and finally 10 days letter it arrived. I left the next day.
A magical moment on Malua.
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Culebra Puerto Rico
2013-03-20
Malua is at 18:18.46N 65:17.83W at Dewey Puerto Rico on 16/03/2013
I left US Virgin Island after checking out and filling with water and diesel,stopping for the night at Lindberg Bay close to the airport. I was pleased to leave the cruise ship culture and the wild west of the Caribbean.
The sail of only 20 miles was with little wind from being because I let early in the morning. Had I waited I would have had a good round down wind right into the protected bay of Ensenada Honda and the clearing in town of Dewey.
I arrived before noon and waited till after lunch to walk to the airport to clear in with Customs and Boarder Protection. The fellow there was super efficient and very helpful. I told him my plans and he suggested that I only take a 20 day cruising permit because 15 days after it expired I could again ask for another one for a full year assuming I had been out of the USA during those 15 days. This suited me well because I would not use up the time while I was south of the USA. He showed me the regulations and before I knew it was was in PR and had a cruising permit.
On my return to Malua the radio blasted out I should join Ian and Wendy on their big cat for a drink. They are larger than life Australian with big hearts, generous and fuel of advice. After a long discussion they loaded me with cruising guides, charts and advice and which route to take along the south coast of the island to the west. They had spent a great time in those waters and wanted every cruiser to have as good a time as they did. It confirmed my initial thoughts but I will have to get a move on if I want to be in NY by mid June.
The next day I set off for Veiques. A good beat into the easterly wind then a wild run down the southern shore. I could only find one bay of the six or more that was sheltered from the wind and swell. As the sun set I was at anchor in Sun Bay and took a long walk on the white sandy shore of this typical tropical beach.
The next day was a 50 nm down wind wild ride along the southern reef strewn shore of the main island of Puerto Rico to the bay of Salinas.
A magical moment on Malua.
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Salinas Bay and San Juan Puerto Rico
2013-03-26
Malua is at 17:56.94N 66:17.56W in Salinas Bay on the south coast of Puerto Rico 19/03/2013
I had a very fast ride from the island east of the main island Vieques and then along the south coast because the wind was from the east and the swell was up. It is quite disconcerting to sail towards a coral reef with the wind behind you knowing that you can't see the channel opening amongst the waves and therefore have to depend totally on the waypoints and the chart plotter. Scary but you are ready to act if the chart is wrong.
I made it through the channel and behind the reef in to a very large bay. Bahia Rincon. Salinas is at the eastern end up a shallow entrance into a bay surrounded by mangroves. The wind was still blowing above 20 knots so I deceiced to drop the anchor and stay the night outside but behind the le:-) e of the land.
Once the sun was up I entered the channel which I knew to be shallow but full of mud. At less than 2 knots I nosed my way in, at one point the depth below the keel was only 20 cm. Anyway I am use to that from the French canals. The channel opened up into a wide bay with a number of boats on mooring balls and a few at anchor. I dropped the anchor, made Malua ship shape and went ashore. Just outside the marina entrance is a sail maker. She gave me lots of good information about the area and put me in touch with Sydney who is the local car rental fellow. I am to rent a car from him tomorrow.
I set off to walk to the local town. Very run down with lots of people just hanging around. I stopped in at the local library. Not very many books, a few old reference books and lots of empty shelves. Three librarians and a few computers connected to the web.
Next day no Sydney with the car. But after a phone call he appeared with a Hertz car and all the paperwork. When I suggested that was not what I wanted he said wait a minute and appeared with a more modest vehicle. 35 dollars free use of all the tolls and no paperwork, just leave the car unlocked with the key in the glovebox. Right just what I wanted.
Get out the map. Select route 1 then 52 and I will find myself on old San Juan. Almost two hours latter after a nerve racking drive I was in the old city. The traffic is heavy and many cars don't have break lights but if you keep your wits about you and follow the signs you'll reach your major destination.
I headed towards the old fort at the end of the peninsula and found a car park. I took a few pictures of the car and its location just in case I got lost or could not find it at the end of the day.
On with the vhf radio – Jack Tar can you read me. Yes Malua where are you? In the park near Customs. OK we will meet you for lunch in a few minutes. How good is that!
We had a great lunch of Tapas in a Spanish style restaurant then set off to walk through the old city towards the fort. The fort has been restored. It is large with many levels dominating the entrance to the port of San Juan. We could see the open sea from the look out and both masters agreed today was a good day to be at anchor.
We returned to the car and I gave Pedro and Carol a lift to the marina where they had anchored off. I then set off along route 22 or 123/10 westwards and then south back to Salinas. Quite a challenge but again follow the signs and you are on your way.
I stopped in at a chemist to fill my Australian prescription because I was running low. I spoke to the chemist and yes they had the two sets of pill I required. How may did I require. I normally pay in Australia about 73 dollars for 30 of each. These would be 300 us dollars for the same quantity. I would not like to be a private patient in Puerto Rico or the USA. I paid the money, read all the does and donots and made a decision that I will have to cut down on these pills.
After negotiating the toll roads, the byways and the highways of the PR I would skip the city of Ponce and drive straight back to Salinas with a short stop at the large supermarket to pick up some essentials.
I arrived back at the marina well after dark. Dropped the car in the car park and back to Malua for a well earned rest.
A magical moment on Malua.
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Playa Santa and Boqueron in Puerto Rico
2013-03-26
Malua is at. 17:56.36N 66:57.46W at Playa Santa on 21/03/2013
I left the anchorage of Salinas Bay in the early morning at the top of the tide. I followed my in path out on the chart plotter knowing I would easily make it out. Once outside I negotiated the reef out into the relatively deep water and we sails went up and I was on a down wind run to cover as many miles as I could before dark.
The bottom of Malua is quite dirty with all the warm water growth plus the fact I don't think that the EU anti fouling paint has much effect here in the Caribbean.
I made it behind the cape into Playa Santa which is west of the city of Esenda. It is a shallow bay with one dive boat moored in the bay. There are two large tower blocks of apartments right on the shore and what looks like a bar. I did not take my evening walk but retired to bed early hoping that the swell would drop off during the night which it did.
The next day I sent off a few emails and pulled up the anchor to sail round the south eastern cape of Cabo Dojo.
The wind was not strong so I had to motor most of the way and reached Boqueron about noon. Dropped the anchor and went ashore.
This is a holiday town set along a wide sandy bay. Even at mid day the music was thumping. The dinghy dock was run down and the phone at the town square had not worked for three years so I had to ask a shop keeper if I could use his phone to contact Customs to tell them of my arrival and departure. they took the info but were not interested. In the DR I used my entry form as my departure. They never look at which box is ticked.
I then set about drawing money out of the two ATMs in town for use on the island west of here. I soon exceeded my withdrawal limit so I will have to be carefully as I go west.
That evening a Canadian yacht arrived having crossed the Mona passage from the north of the Dominican Republic. They had a great time. I gave them all my charts of PR plus the maps and tour literature I had collected. I hope they have a good time.
I set off to cross the infamous Mona Passage tomorrow starting at midnight. The planned anchorage is 100 nm away which I hope to make before the sun sets.
A magical moment on Malua.
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Casa del Campo Dominican Republic
2013-03-26
Malua is at 18:24.06N 68:54.23W at Casa del Campo Marina on 24/03/2013.
I left Puerto Rico in the dark at midnight. The moon was up but there was no wind. One sets off watching the chart plotter and the depth below the keel. The reef here is more than five miles off the coast so the town lights are just dropping behind the horizon and you or still in less than 15 m of water. When you are finally outside the reef the water drops off to more than 1 km deep.
I motored all night with less than 5 knots of wind. The going was slow because there seemed to be a current against me. By 8:00 am I was abeam of Mona Island and the slight current was with me. At this rate I would reach the DR well after dark at about 10:00 pm. Not a good time to make landfall.
I had selected a beach to the east of the SE cape which has a large island Saona Island. One can tuck in on the entrance to the channel but there is an uncharted sand bar so I chose to go further NW to a beach of Las Palmillas.
It was now getting dark quickly as I motored along the shore looking for the beach. I could still see a few boats at anchor but the seemed very close to the beach. Just then a large game fishing boat appeared and followed me in. I slowed to a snails pace and he passed so I was able to follow him. At one point he must have gone into shallow water because he backed out and took a different route. Finally dropping his anchor. I stood of a good distance and dropped the hook in 1 m under the keel but still a fair way from the shore. A save anchorage and a good sleep after 18 hours and just over 100 nm covered.
Up the next day to Casa del Campo to check in. I called the marina who said come in and tie up at W dock right at the entrance. There were more than enough people to help but the dock was at station level and the surge rolled Malua, luckily the wind blew us off.
Please wait for the authorities who arrived within an hour – all seven of them. Each came on board and went down below. Very polite with just the Customs lady able to speak any English. It seems as if every one filled a different form but with the same information. I was finally presented with a form and a bill.. 93 us dollars plus tips which I gave them 30 to share.
Off to the marina office to find a berth. Sorry we are full it is the start of the fishing season. Frankly a Greek port captain could have got at least 50 more boats. They suggested I anchor just inside the entrance which I did.
Casa del Campo is the larges marina development complex I have ever seen. It has three competition golf courses with its own international airport which I understand has Tiger Woods jet at the moment. There is a tournament in a few days. The development has been carved out of the cane field and has been in existence for more than 30 years. The houses along the sea and links are the largest I have ever seen including a red ferrarie. Most people use golf carts – super size to get around.
I set off to walk to the exit and into the local town of LA Romans. A bus from thedeveloment stopped to give me a lift a fellow befriended me and asked wat I wanted to do. We got off and approached the exit security but they would not let me out without a pass. OK get back on the bus and go to the main entrance and wait. I did and sure enough there the fellow was on his scooter. Hop on the back and off we go. We stop at a taxi rank and he negotiates a rate for me to be shown around Romans and return me to the marina for 20 us dollars.
Being Sunday the shops are closed but the people were out in front of their houses and in the parks. The younger generation were at the discos and bars. Just like any other disco,with the bouncer outside with a bevy of good looking girls hanging around. My driver took me to see the towns highlights as well as the back streets of the town. It is very rundown, poor and need a good coat of paint. Don't walk these streets if you are white and not at night. I was very lucky to see this side of the town. We then returned to Cascade Campo the complete reverse of the local town. I checked the prices of the real estate. The place on the sea front is only 20 mil US and a modest 6 bedroom place with pool only 1.45 mil US.
I dropped in to the restaurant area to see if I would have dinner. Sorry we are full you should make a reservation for tomorrow. OK Malua will offer pork chops on an orange sauce. Just right.
I checked out the next day and got my Despacho without trouble or a tip.
A magical moment on Malua.
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Boca Chico Dominican Republic
2013-04-03
Malua is at 18:26.875N 69:37.343W at mooring in Boca Chico on 26/03/2013
Boca Chico what at contrast from the plush resort of Casa de Compo. This
place is a dump, poor with little to see as part of the Port of Andres.
It is easy to follow the markers into the port then move NE towards the
Marina Zarpar. You have to pass the Club Nautico and between the
island. Keep VERY close to the end of their jetty because the shore of
shallow water extends from the end of the island almost to their dock
but once past the shallow pick up a mooring ball off the dock of Marina
Zarpar. The fellow in charge of the dock Roul speaks good English and
is very helpful. He took me on his moped into the village to an ATM in a
chemist to try and draw cash from my Ozzie Viza and Mastercard but to no
avail. His assistant Sonnie took my dispatchio and when I wanted to
leave he got a new one for me for only $20. Good value and no direct
dealings with the authorities who I understand are not very cooperative
here.
One can walk to the actual town of Boca Chico along the beach, only
during the day to see the locals and some second class US citizens
having a good time in the shallow water behind the reef. The food at
the restaurants is not good so dont waste your time. The banks also did
not give me any cash so I used up some of my US dollars in this dump. I
seemed to have walked a long way and only saw the back streets of a very
poor suburb with every house guarded by high fence and burglar bars.
People sit behind these looking out into the street on which mopeds and
old cars rush up and down. There are many small bars with people
drinking and playing chess or dominoes with a number of girls to serve.
I only spent two nights here because to get to Santo Domingo would have
been very difficult especially not wanting to change my dollars into the
local currency so I asked Sonny to get a dispatchio to leave at 8:00.
After a number of phone calls and off he goes on the scooter he returns
well after 9:00 but with the correct paperwork. I had indicated I would
be going to Salimas a big bay more than 65 nm away so it would be tight
if I was to get their in the light.
A magical moment on Malua
Salimas Bay Dominican Republic
2013-04-03
Malua is at 18:12.88N 70:32.75W in Salinas Bay on 27/03/2013
I left Boca Chico knowing that I had 65 nm to travel and I may have to
enter in the dark but from all reports and the charts It looked easy. I
sailed most of the way with the wind behind but as the sun set the wind
dropped. I had plotted a course all the way into the bay with a heads up
to look out for the unmarked fish farm.
Captain Bob at the Marine Rescue has always insisted that when you plot
your course you stand off any headland no matter if it is the one you
know very well, by about a mile, just in case something goes wrong. I
listened and have to this day stayed more than a mile off any headland
no matter the conditions. Well! I was motoring past this headland before
turning to starboard to get into its lee and enter the channel when bang
bang….. the fan belt on the engine broke. Stop the engine. No wind to
sail and a slight current but Malua was adrift BUT I was more than a
mile off the headland. It only took me 10 minutes to get the new belt
fit, it tested and to restart the engine and Malua was heading away from
the rocky shore of the headland. No danger, no stress but a lesson well
learnt. Stand off the shore no matter how well you know it or how deep
it is.
The channel was not well lit but there are a few marker buoys which the
radar picked up plus the chart was spot on. I moved cautiously in
towards what appeared to be a few anchored yachts and dropped the anchor
about a half mile off shore.
The next day I moved closer on shore and re-anchored before the Coast
Guard appeared in a small fishing boat. He came aboard and insisted in
looking around but did not even opening a cupboard. He took the
dispatchio then asked for some grog. I took him to the fridge and
offered him some beer in a plastic bottle which he refused. I indicated
I wanted to leave the next day at 8:00 and I required a new dispatchio.
I then took a long walk along the bay shore towards what I though was a
town. After more than two hours no it was a very large naval base with
dry dock and cadets on the parade ground. Not a great exertion.
There is essentially no village at Salinas only a run down hotel Salinas
which was having a party that night. The waterfront is clean and so are
the houses but it is poor. A few houses had shops with not much to
offer. The fisherman's coop seemed to be the place to be.
The next day I expected to see the Coast Guard appear on the dot of 8:00
by 9:00 still no sign so I got in the dinghy and went to the fisherman's
coop with my intentions on a piece of paper. Having names written down
helps with my poor pronunciation. I was informed I would have to go to
the Coast Guard base at the end of the peninsular and get the
dispatchio. Get a lift on the back of a motorbike with a young fellow.
Down the road we went, through the less than secure gates right into the
guard house of the Coast Guard. They seemed to know what I wanted but
had to wait for someone. The original fellow appeared, did not say a
word to me but one of the fellows started the torturous process of
filling out the form. He could hardly write and for him to copy from my
form to the new one was a challenge but as always I have the patience of
Job in these circumstances. Finally it was complete although I did say I
was stopping at Barahona but had no intentions. I just wanted to leave.
Which I did by 10:30.
I had plotted a course to round Capo Rojo some time during the night.
The total distance to my next destination was 220 nm a two nighter at
the current wind and speed.
That afternoon the wind came up and blew Malua along my intended route
which was a run. More importantly the swell came up because that part of
the coast is a lee shore for the swell to come along the south of Puerto
Rico and the DR. And did the swell build. It was the biggest swell I
have seen since the Souther Ocean! At sun set the wind was well over the
25 knot range, I had taken in two reefs and no headsail and was surfing
down the long swell reaching speeds well over 8 knots. The top speed
reached was 10.4 knots as I surfed down a wave in the near darkness. It
was exciting and a bit scary but Malua and I handled it well. I was hand
steering for more than five hours because I could not depend on the
auto-pilot handeling the conditions. My shoulders were sore when I
finally switched on the auto-pilot again. I can tell you I gave Capo
Rojo more than 5 miles distance as I rounded it just after 2 am.
The wind started to drop as did the swell so I was able to open up the
foresail and settle into a pleasant sail down wind. I also set the Watch
Commander for a few 27 minute sleeps. I took a few before the sun rose
and we moved down the coast by which time the wind had dropped off.
Now the challenge was to enter the Baie des Cayes on my way to Ille a
Vache. I knew I would not make it by sun set so I set myself an
anchorage some way along the island NW coast hopefully out of the swell.
I had been warned about the many fishing nets in that area so as I
reached the shallower water I slowed Malua down to about 2 knots put on
all the forward lights and hoped I would be able to see the plastic
bottles of the buoys before I hit one. With a bit of luck and good
vigilance I dropped the anchor on the NW corner of the island well into
the large bay but not far enough in to get out of the swell. Fortunately
the wind was against the swell so Malua sat quite calmly as I had a
great meal and a god sleep.
A magical moment on Malua
Ille a Vache Haiti
2013-04-03
Malua is at 18:06.40N 73:41.68W at Port Margan on the island of Ille a
Vache Haiti
All the crusers that have come this way have enthused about this
delightful island and its people. It is off the coast of souther Haiti
and is not influenced by the mainland. In fact the authorities dont seem
to have arrived. When you drop anchor – keep to the port side as you
enter the bay there are a swarm of young fellows in or on all forms of
anything that can float. From good dugout canoes, surfboards, fiberglass
row boats to inflatables. They all have a story. Some of the more market
orientated have a resume and references. I had been told by Outside –
ian and Wendy to look out for two fellows. I identified one Pe Pe who
agreed to take me to the market on Monday morning. That is a story in
itself.
Kramer is a fellow who is receiving money from Slow Dancing a Canadian
couple to build a bar and I was instructed to have a look and take some
picture to report progress. There has been and he has cast a central
pillar for the roof and purchased some plywood for the cupboards and bar
area. Things are slow but he has done what he can with the money so far.
These people are very poor and want to do any sort of work on a yacht to
get some funds to advance themselves. Some are helpful and willing but
the majority just come to beg. i walked into the hills behind the local
French hotel to find four or five of the youngsters in amongst the
hotels garbage picking it over for something to eat. I now know why more
than one asked if they could take my garbage. Not a good sight.
I had arranged for Pe Pe to take me to the market at the larger town
some way away along the sea shore. I had in fact not asked how long it
would take to walk but we set off at 8:00. He walked fast and I had to
struggle to keep up. Up hill and down dale, along the coast in the soft
sand and then through the mangroves. We stopped for a drink of water
from a hand operated pump then on towards the market. After two hours I
knew we were getting close because more people were walking the same
path. On the outskirts there were a few people with live animals ready
to be sold and taken home then just out of the market the horse and
donkey parking lot. More than a hundred animals just standing in the sun
waiting for their owners to return.
The market is a typical African/Caribbean poor market. Open stalls or
some covered stalls with each vendor displaying a small range of goods.
I first had to stop at the money changer to turn my US dollars into the
local Gourd 1=40 I could then purchase the onions I was seeking plus
tomatoes and ripe mangoes. I got a good selection for my 10 dollars. We
returned to the money changer for a beer for the young fellow and a coke
– yes a US Coke for me.
Be Be had arranged that we would return by sail taxi to Port Morgan in
one of the local sail boats. All wooden made with local timber. The
frames selected from a tree with the right bend to fit the inside. They
are mostly water proof but don't have much free board especially when
you put 16 people in then plus all their market purchase which ranged
from fuel, net fibre to fix the fishing nets, a piece of cloth, soap and
an assortment of smaller food items including spices.
We set off and only hoisted the forsail because the wind was quite
strong and we where going down wind. We kept quite close to the coast
and far less than one mile off the two major headlands but there again
being close in this case meant that most people if they could swim would
make it to the shore in the event of a mishap. After almost an hour we
turned into Port Morgan and Malua was pointed out to the passengers by
Pe Pe as my yacht in which I had sailed from Australia. I dont think
many knew where Australia is. It was a great experience.
On the shore of the bay there were two boats being built in the
traditional fashion used for centuries. The shipright used an axe, and
adz and a hand saw plus his hammer and a few nails. The dug out conoe
which was having it final coat of paint was almost ready for launching.
I watched as the fellow took a tree branch shaped it into a point then
cut off the point and then cut into the branch to form a brush for the
paint. It was an amazing transformation from stick to paint brush which
worked as well as any badger haired brush and readily available at no cost.
Ille a Vache has been a great experience to step back in time to a small
village using sailing boats as transport, making their own boats, No
electricity and a great desire to improve themselves.
A magical moment on Malua.
Tomorrow off to Cuba.
Santiago de Cuba
2013-05-24
Malua is at 19:59.15N 75:52.18W on 4/4/2013 at Santiago de Cuba
After leaving Ille a Vache Hati I sailed towards Cuba – a major destination of this trip. I was off the south west coast of Hati at about 20 nm from the coast when I encountered a shallow shoal with depths of about 20 mn. I also noticed many floats attached to fish traps. A squall was approaching from the NW and I was preparing to drop the sail as I motored in a little wind. Suddenly there was a bang and the engine made a loud noise. I was at the wheel in a second and put it into neutral. Malua had come to a stop. I was attached to a fish trap round the propeller and streaming out the stern. I had prepared for such a situation so knew just what to do. Drop the sails and kill the engine. I then put on my safety harness and strop attached to the stern. On went the face mask and fins. My sharpest knife in my hand I went over the side. Attached to the propeller was a number of plastic bottles used as floats in this area. One slash of the knife Malua was free of the fish trap and the second cut freed the propeller of the floats. I was back on board in less than a minute and into a warm shower.
The storm did not eventuate and Malua was back on course with no ill effect however if the sea state had been any worse it could have been quite exciting. Visualising prior to the event what had to be done sure helped in executing the task.
As I approached Cuba I could see Guantanamo Bay on the potter. It seemed strange to me that this part of the USA is right in the middle of Cuba. It all happened when America had a great influence in Cuba and annexed via an indefinite lease of the major nine harbours of Cuba. After the Castro revolution the harbours were taken back but America kept Guantanamo Bay. It has been a bone of contention between the two nations for many years with no resolution in sight.
I arrived outside this major port founded in 1514 by Diego de Velazquez late in the afternoon. Cortes was the first governor. A large Spanish fort Castillo del Morro dominates the entrance as one motors up the inlet towards the so called Marina. A blue building on the starboard side of the waterway. I was told to come alongside for the authorities to come aboard. I had prepared for this encounter by hiding all my wine and spirits under the bed or in boxes at the back of the cupboard.
First to arrive was the doctor and the pest inspection. They asked all the usual question about pests and general health then with a help of a very ineffectual touch started to look for pests and things of value. They found nothing gave me a wad of paper and said the next set of officials would arrive, and they did. The Customs and Immigration. The former with three officials each taking a section of the boat to open and close draws and cupboards. The young fellow started in the aft cabin and unrolled all the shade covers then roll them up in any sort of mess. He looked in cupboards and all the grocery bags. He finally found my French side bag which he produced and asked me to open it. He thought he had found my stash of drugs. To his disappointment all he found was a role of toilet paper, a pencil and paper and a map of St Thomas. They soon left after their superficial search to be followed by the Port Control who wanted to know all the port I would visit. I had listed them on a sheet of paper which they took and subsequently issued me with a Cuban cruising permit. You are allowed to stop at any minor island but only the named port and only at the designated "Marinas" where you have to check in again.
After the officials left I left the dock and anchored off the jetty besides an Australian Ketch Listowel Lady. I fell into bed for a good long sleep.
The following day I was introduced to a Cuban family who assists cruisers with repairs and getting around. They are an extended family with mother who does the cruisers washing, father who helps organise anything, the son who will get a cruiser to pay for anything and everything, two delightful young daughters and the mother's elderly parents who also live in their three room house. No running water, gas to cook but free electricity. The house was provided when they decided to move out of the city. I and Listowel Lady took one of the private taxi – those individual who are licenced to transport people in their cars to the airport to draw money on my credit card. For about 1000 Aus dollars I received just over 1100 CUC ( Convertible Units of Currency) the currency used by the tourists and those who wish to purchase imported good. The local currency is the peso – there are 24/25 to the CUC. The average wage is about 300 to 400 per month, so anyone dealing in CUC scores big time. A dollar tip is a days work.
While imported goods are relatively cheap 1 litre diesel is 1 CUC = $1 in the local markets which only use peso they are dirt cheap. A pound of tomatoes is 5 peso. A family gets a ration book and draws basic food stuff on this: rice, chicken, sweat potatoes, milk, oil, bread and some other things. It is very difficult to live on these rations alone. Those in the country grow their own fruit and vegetables. They are allowed to sell 20% of this production in the many local markets at the peso price.
The way to get rich is to get involved with the tourist industry where you interface with the foreigners who deal in CUC who are more than willing to give tips for services just like they do back in their home country or to sell products or craft, painting or other goods which can be sold in the tourist markets.
Don’t think this communist/socialist state has no capitalist transactions because that is the dominate form of economy and the people are smart and clever business people. Bargaining is acceptable and in most cases they will refuse a very low price because they know they can sell it tomorrow to the next foreigner. I purchased a number of paintings, – acrylics and some very lovely paper mashe fish in a form of a mobile for less than $5 a piece – a real bargain.
More about the Cuban people and economy in a later post.
One night I went with the son into Santiago to listen to the local music. Santiago is said to be the heart and sole of the Cuban music scene. It seems to be everywhere especially the restaurants and bars. The major venues are overrun by tourist but they also have the big names and the best bands. I visited a few but soon left for the smaller places. That evening we ended up at a major Disco at a beach front hotel. I had to produce my id to get in as did everybody. Our party, two blokes and myself sat in a good table surrounded by other parties all drinking having purchased their grog in CUCs. The music was a local style plus Cuban salsa, all sung in Spanish with very sophisticated video clips. A good time was had by all. We now had to get back to the Marina so the son negotiated a price for a ride back via the city where we stopped to get some cheap food and Harry like always before paid.
The following day I was up early because the father was taking me into see the real Santiago. Again we took a local taxi and went strainght on the double highway right into the centre of town. There are few cars on the rural roads but a number in the city. We went to a local market to buy me provisions from a list we had drawn up. The total cost was less than $15. Fruit, veg, cheese and pork. Then onto the down town area to collect a prescription for his wife. There was a line at the pharmacy so we had to wait. I stopped into the barbers shop. The traditional 1950's set-up with chairs, mirrors, scissors and non safety razors. It was an experience and all for less than $3. The father returned and also had a hair cut plus a shave…. Harry again paid.
We stopped at the street market for some food. Some grilled pork, chips and a beer. Again Harry paid. You will have got the theme of this. The locals like tourists because for simply showing them the sights and restaurants, the tourist pays. Not much but it all adds up over a three day period. The Cubans are very welcoming. The hand of friendship soon turns palm up and they want something. While I did not feel totally ripped off I did feel that they took advantage of my money and generosity without asking or even giving a thanks. Watch out when you meet the locals they are educated, smart, not well informed but well versed in how to make a buck and how to get it from the tourist.
It was time to move on anti clockwise round Cuba. I had to check out with the authorities and the Marina manager. They all tried the same ploy. Do you have anything that you don’t want because we cant get things and you can give it to ME. Not a bribe nor is it a threat it is just a constant upward hand waiting for a hand out.
I left Santiago in the morning to do an overnighter sailing westwards to the SW tip of the eastern cape Cabo Cruz.
A magical Moment on Malua.
Cabo Cruz
2013-05-24
Malua is at 19:50.49N 77:44.20W at Cabo Cruz on 8/4/2013
I left Santiago pleased to get away from the drain on the funds having seen many sides of Cuban life, tourist, local and cruisers. The family who looked after me certainly do well during the cruising season but must find it hard when the cruisers don't arrive and they have to go back to normal everyday Cuban life.
My sail down the coast was uneventful except for one incident which highlighted the isolation Cubans and especially the locals feel. I saw in the distance a small, about 20 ft fishing boat, adrift almost 15 nm from land. The fellow in the bow was waving franticly. I had the main up and a poled out genoa so not an easy rig to change course. I tried just to ignore the fellow but my seamanship got the better of me so I took all the sails down turned on the motor and turned up wind to come alongside. One of the three fishermen was holding up a engine part asking if I had one on board which I did not. They had a sea anchor out and head to wind. I continued up wind went below and put together a few packets of cigarettes, two small bottles of rum and some sweets. I wrapped then in a plastic bag and returned down wind dropping it into their boat as I passed. A great cry of thank you went up as they looked inside the bag. That would give them sustenance till they fixed the engine. I have heard of yachts towing these boats some distance towards land but thankfully the sea was too rough for me to do that today.
Cabo Crux extends far off the actual end of the dry land so I took a wide berth past two red buoys and came into the anchorage just after lunch. No sooner had I dropped the anchor that a young lad appeared off the stern with a large crayfish and a bag of tomatoes wanting to barter these for things or CUCs. I traded the crayfish for a small bottle of rum and a razor. He was not interested in a selection of fish hooks. He tried to come aboard but I refused. This was where Cadiz was boarded during the night and some shoes and fins stolen. I secured everything that night.
Fried crayfish on the menu that evening.
A magical moment on Malua.
Cabo Blanco
2013-05-24
Malua is at 20:28.54N 77:57.98W at Cabo Blanco on 9/4/2013
The southern coast of Cuba is shallow and dotted with coral and sand cays or islands. The coral reef runs some miles off the coast in a east west direction. There are only a few channels through this reef but once inside the bottom is flat but shallow less than 20 meters. There are shoals and isolated reefs scattered all over this in reef sea area so one has to keep to the designated channel if you don't wish to spend the time on the bow dodging these coral heads and shallow spots which are easy to see in the clear water with a bright sun but difficult if the sun in ahead or behind a cloud.
I chose the outside route then in at the Canel de Cuatro Reales. The journey was easy but became more challenging as I turned north towards the channel between the coral. The sun had gone behind the clouds and Calders cruising guide was not much help but the Cuban charts where a great help. I had purchased two before I left Santiago. I found the red starboard stake and turned into the lagoon just south of Cabezo Mosquitero and north of Cayo Blanco. It is a deep lagoon – 15 m but well protected from the wind waves. The entrance is well buoyed but stay off the port sand bank. The wind had come up to slightly more than 14 knots as I dropped the anchor and let out almost 60 meters of chain in the deep water.
Into the RIB for a chance to explore the cay and the two wrecks on the coral. Not very exciting as they were well up on the beach and had been picked over by many a fisherman before I arrived. A quiet night.
A magical moment on Malua.
Cayo Grenada
2013-05-24
Malua is at 20:37.57N 79:14.9W at Cayo Grenada on 10/4/2013
The wind continued all night and I was up with the dawn to follow my track out of this cay and back into the marked channel. I turned west with Fondeadero Media Luna in sight. Eye Candy had spent a few days at this cay and enjoyed it.
Up went the sail and I was reaching down the channel towards the Pasa Mate de Afuera and the open area but shallow 14m and north west. I had selected Cayo Granada as the overnight stop. It is a crescent cay with good protection from the NW wind and sea. As I approached the western entrance there was a ferro cement fishing boat about 45 ft long attending to their nets. I dropped the sails and steamed over having prepared my usual bag of tradeable goods. I came along side and threw the bag onto their deck. They looked inside and asked in Spanish if I wanted a fish. Yes, so I passed them going into wind. I came close enough for a crew member to place a large fish on the deck of Malua. What a great trade. Many thanks fellows. No crayfish this time but more fish than I could eat.
The tripod mentioned in Calder's book has fallen over and only a single stick mark the entrance which is easy to follow if you line up the back island with the mast of the wreck. I dropped the anchor in 7 m of water and dinghyed over to Listowel Lady with half the fish I had been given.
I set off in the dinghy to snorkel for my own crayfish. Over the reef the bottom is flat with a few smallish rocks. My first dive produced a medium size crayfish. It was like taking candy from a baby. I grabbed a second but he went into a hole in the rock and something stung my hand so I let go. No second chance with this fellow so off for the next one. I can see how the fishermen get the crayfish when they know a place which has not been picked over by previous cruisers.
A great fish dinner with some extra crayfish as a started, washed down with French white wine.
A magical moment on Malua.
Cayo Algodon Grande
2013-05-24
Malua is at 20:37.57N 78:14.93W at Cayo Algodon Grande on 11/4/2013
This leg was a long slog through the reefs and cays of the Golgo de Ana Maria and through the Canal del Rancho Veijo and the Canal del Pingue. The channel marks are good in the form of floating buoys painted either red or green and with a light on the top not that one would take this course at night. It is 12 to 16 m deep and easy to follow.
One comes quite close to the Cuban mainland here and the major fishing port on this side of the coast. I could see the many large fishing vessels tied up at an outlying cay waiting to put so sea. Along the way I also saw smaller concrete fishing vessels hauling their nets. These have large mesh nets to catch skates, the size of a dining room table. There was no trade with these fishermen.
There was no wind and a very hot day 34 C and flat seas so Malua just motored along changing course when required. I dropped anchor at Cayo Alogodon Grande just after 3:00pm and tried for some mare crayfish but they where nowhere to be found.
Tomorrow I am going outside the reef to gain some miles going west.
A magical moment on Malua.
Cayo Breton
2013-05-24
Malua is at 21:07.40N 79:26.98W at Cayo Breton in the channel on 12/4/2013
I was travelling in company with Lithtowel Lady who soon put some distance between us as we sailed towards the Canal Boca Grande opening in the reef. If it is calm one can come inside the reef to get to Cayo Breton but on this day the swell was running and I took the long way round well towards the red channel mark. Be careful of the corral heads and shallow spots as one approaches the shallow entrance at Estero Brenton. The tide was running out as I entered, the sand bar is quite clear and I had been assured it would take Malua's draft. I must say when the depth under the keel dropped to less than half a meter I though I was back in the French canals but anyway I got through and steamed up between the mangroves towards the radio mast. Lithtowel Lady had already anchored.
Just as I anchored and was taking a shower a 40 ft fishing boat steamed passed me showing some crayfish to trade. I was out the shower and into the dinghy almost before they had time to anchor. I stepped aboard to find a box of very large crayfish and a further box of female crayfish in berry. When I pointed out the berry one crew member took one and threw it overboard saying it should have been done before. Lithcowel Lady appeared and before we knew it we where each presented with two grilled crayfish tails on a plate with a bowl of hot cray legs in tomato. It was well presented and prepared well before they arrived at the anchorage. We where the targets for the evenings trade. I had brought my usual bag of gifts plus a reel of fishing line. The wanted batteries and razors. The rum was consumed but the cigarettes returned as they indicated they were divers and did not smoke. LL returned to their boat to get some tradeable goods and before you knew it the crew where on LL looking around. I received 8 crayfish most in berry for my offerings while LL got the box of large ones – a better trade.
The captain was getting anxious at the time the crew was spending on board LL so started the engine and moved towards LL. They had to go some distance before it got dark.
When they had gone I read the section in Letter from the Caribbean about their experience with fisherman in the same spot and I realised that this was a well rehearsed routine. Was it a good trade – yes but had I experienced a meeting with the simple fisher folk of Cuba – well no I had entered into a commercial exchange by some very smart people who played on my generosity and good will. Good luck to them but next time I will negotiate far better and will be equally demanding.
I left the next day at the top of the tide and had no difficulty with the depth.
A magical moment on Malua.
Cienfuegos
2013-05-24
Malua is at 22:07.68N 80:22.19W at Cienfuegos on 15/4/2013
I left Cayo Brenon at the top of the tide to do an overnighter to the major port and city of Cienfuegos. It is further to the west than the usual stopping off point of Casilda which is shallow and not very attractive. There was no wind for 12 hours as I motored north west towards my destination. A long slog however the sea was flat and the moon came up soon after the sun set. LL had put the throttling down and was way ahead. I was not worried because I wanted to cover the 86 nm and arrive at dawn.
The colour in the east was just showing as I sighted the Punta de los Colorados lighthouse on the eastern shore of the entrance. Be careful of the tide that sweeps along the coast eastwards for you will not make the entrance. I arrived at the half dawn to find a well marked channel filled with rowing boats – fishermen setting of out to sea. They carried only one light and in the darkness I was just able to see them. They row out with the tide and return with the incoming tide. The entrance is straightforward, a turn to the left then an turn to the right, northwards to the Cayo Carenas and a hard turn to port past the red flashing light No 14 and then a course of 008T into the large bay and the Marina Jagua.
I arrives as the sun came up and dropped the anchor some way off shore in only 2.9m of water under the keel. I showered, put the entry uniform on and went ashore to be met by the Customs fellow, same routine here. they do the paper work then the refrain…. what can you give me?. The immigration was straight forward plus the harbour master and port control. All done and dusted within half and hour. Back to the boat to clean up and a lie down. No sleep, so I went ashore and walked into the town – a long walk down a wide Malecon Boulevard with trees and two lanes. It must have been a sight in its hayday but now it is just run down.
It was Sunday morning so the locals where out in force. The central Plaza Parce Jose Martin. It is an amazing large square with a large Government building on one side, a Cathedral de la Purisima in another corner, a teatro Tomas Terry and in the final corner a watch tower which did have a complete view of the bay. I walked round the square and found an open air performance of musicians and poets performing for the locals. It was under some vines so I took a chair and spent two hour enjoying the music and poetry reading. Great experience. On my way back I stopped into a small art gallery where a young man was displaying his picture. Not my style but he told me that an agent had organised a showing of a few of his pictures in Sydney. On my way out I asked if he knew of a good local restaurant. He tried to explain then said I will take you. I followed a few blocks and then through a narrow door into a small room with about ten tables set up with the full range of cutlery and wind glasses. He introduced me to the proprietress who gave me a menu, at which point I asked the young man if he would join me for lunch – I would pay. Yes.
We had a very simple prawn based meal with salad and a beer all for less than 15 CUC.
I walked home along the paved walkway flanked by all types of shops back to the Marina.
That evening I went ashore to try and contact the local people who had helped Eye Candy have such a good time in Trinidad and Havana. Unfortunately one of the fellows was in Havana while the other did not answer the phone used by a young man who offer to call them for me. It turned out he was prepared to organise a private taxi to take me to Trinidad the next day.
At 8:30 the next morning Alex arrived in a car driven by a friend to take me the 75 km. Trinidad was founded by Diego Velazquez in 1514. It has been declared a world heritage city. From 1600 to 1800 it was the centre of the sugar trade and the money flowed into the city as the sugar flowed out. The buildings reflect the wealth of the people however when the sugar stopped so did time and development so the city is well preserved. The old centre has been restored with the original cobblestones streets and the pastel coloured buildings housing local people, restaurants, hotels and casa – a home stay room in a persons house at a controlled rate but paid for in CUC.
I was taken to the house in the poorer down town area and given a large high ceiling room with on suite bathroom all for 25 CUC. The owner a woman who did not speak very much English offered to show me around the town. We walked to the main square then returned to a small restaurant where I had chicken and she had pork. A very simple meal for a few CUC. That evening I had dinner cooked by the owner's husband who is a chef in an up market hotel in the town. Not a bad meal but nothing to write home about.
As it got dark I walked to the Plaza Major and on the right of the church on the stair leading up to the Casa de la Musica local music is performed. On Monday and Wednesday it cost one CUC to attend which dissuades the locals but the committed attend to dance to the music. I sat at a table next to a party and got talking to a German girl who was spending a month in the town learning Spanish at some school. Her hobby was dancing and could she dance. She was known by the local hot shots so she was on the dance floor all the time. She was as good as any of the local girls and enjoyed the different steps executed by the young dancers as compared to the more traditional steps used by the older blokes who can really move to the beat. It all closed up at 1:00 am. I found my way back to the house and slept well.
The next day I walking the city streets. There are many fine restaurants, houses and hotels in the down town area – all with their windows open to let you see in side. A few houses have been turned into museums with an entrance fee of 5 CUC.
After lunch my private taxi arrived and we took the drive back to Cienfuegos along the coast. At one point the road was covered with squashed red crabs who had been caught by the passing cars. My driver slowed down to a crawl as he did not want to puncture his tyres. Some where not so lucky and four or five cars where parked by the roadside with one missing wheel. We arrived back and I gave the driver 25 CUC for the return trip and 20 CUC to my guide – Alex.
That evening I met LL and we sat around the marina bar swapping stories while drinking beers at one CUC a can. One of the best beer I have tasted in the Caribbean.
Tomorrow I set off to make some long hops to Cabo San Antonio and round that cape to Havana and Marina Hemingway.
A magical moment on Malua.
Cayo Largo and Cabo San Antonio
2013-05-24
Malua is at 21:54.18N 84:57.50W at Cayos de la Lena near Cabo San Antonio on 22/4/2013
I left Cienfuegos in the late afternoon after checking out with the officials and waiting for the ebb to take me out through the bay entrance. I then set off southwards past the restricted area around the Bay of Pigs. I was still in the shallow southern Cuban bays inside the reef. I passed a shallow spot at dawn and went out into the real sea with the wind behind me and a good set of waves crashing onto the reef. I deceived that it was prudent not to take what looked like a narrow entrance into the reef just south of Cayo Largo but to go further west and take the safer wider entrance which is well buoyed. A long slog to windward in 4 meters of water followed before I entered the channel and the designated anchoring spot. I dropped the anchor in 3 meters of water but the rochla would not grab on the weedy bottom. After four attempts I brought out the SQR and set two anchors. That kept me from drifting into the channel.
The next day I took the dinghy to the Marina Puerasol which is near the airport and a long way from the five major hotels. I hitched a ride with one of the tour trains bringing people to the marina. While the driver was collecting people at a hotel I ran through the grounds to look at the beach and sea. The hotel could have been at any shore any where in the world however the beach was white, long and inviting but the surf was up so no one was swimming. Back on the train and I was back at the marina. The drive came from Havana on a 20 day turn around. He lived in a hostel block, rather run down with all the other workers. It was their change over day so they were waiting at the assembly point to return to Havana having I suspect received more in tips than their basic wage!
Off at sun up to find my way out the shallow area and into the real sea however there was no wind so for two days I motored towards Cabo San Antonio. It is a very dangerous cape with strong winds and strong currents as they funnel through the Yucatan Strait between Cuba and Mexico however on the day I rounded the cape there was no wind and just a northerly flowing current. A good arrival.
I rounded the cape and set a course for a secure anchorage behind Cayos de la Lenha to find Matador with Stu and Steph on board. I had heard them on the net for some while so it was good to put a face to the name. They were waiting for a weather window to sail to Belize while I was waiting for more wind to go north west to Havana. I put in 150 CUC of diesel at the Marina Los Morros just to be sure I could reach my destination if there was no wind but I wanted some wind to sail. Be careful what you wish for.
I set off at dawn with no wind to make to 170 nm trip round the western tip of Cuba and along the NW coast towards Havana knowing that there would be only light wind and hopefully not on the nose. All was going well for the first 8 hours then the wind increased with wind into the strong gulf stream funnelling through the Yucatan Strait. The seas were short, confused and came over the bow of Malua every minute or so. I was hard on the wind beating into the wind which had now reached more than 20 knots. While Malua was going well through the water I was making little headway towards my destination. Back and forth I tacked. On the second night I set a course on the starboard tack at mid night I tacked back towards the land and to my dismay was following the same course I had taken eight hour earlier. The current was sending me back where I had come from. I decided to make short tacks along the coast hoping to stay out of the adverse counter current along the coast.
It worked as I started to see the miles reduce to my destination. At one point the wind increased and I decided I needed to further furl the genoa. I took a turn around the power winch and pushed the button. Bang the furling line broke with a loud bang and the genoa unwound itself. Out came the magic rope and I soon had the genoa re furled and under control however there were a few moments when I thought I would have to drop the sail to get it under control.
I finally arrived outside the entrance of Hemingway Marina at 1800 on the afternoon of the second day, to get very precise instructions on how to enter and secure Malua along side for the authorities to boards. The entrance has a sea buoy a little off the reef. The sea which is a good cross sea as one enters soon dies down to just a swell as you go pass between the channel marks and between the reef only a few meters off your quarter. Turn sharp to port and come alongside a high rough wall. I was met by the Customs fellow and his sniffer dog. He was like all Customs fellow, efficient but always asking for something. Next follow Immigration and Port Control. All efficient with lots of paperwork. All done, I was instructed to go up one of the wide channels which is the Marina. I passed Balvenie and pulled along side just ahead of them.
It was great to see them again. Amanda put on a splendid dinner of her famous roast chicken. A great evening was had by all and I returned to Malua to a well deserved sleep.
Were those magical moments on Malua?
Havana Cuba and Hemingway Marina
2013-05-24
Malua is at 23:05.50N 82;29.70W at Hemingway Marina Havana Cuba on 29/4/2013
I had finally arrived at Hemingway Marina a few miles west of Havana city after sailing clockwise round the south of Cuba. It had been a great 25 days in a fascinating country with great towns, wonderful wild cays and challenging sailing. I now wanted to see the city that brings together the old, the new, the culture, music and economy of Cuba. It is certainly an old city which in certain aspects stopped when the sugar and tobacco riches stopped flowing into the country. It stopped when Castro started the revolution and the USA put an embargo on trade with the enemy and it went backwards when the oil crises hit the western world but despite all of this it is a city where people work and live and certainly have lots of fun based around their type of music and dance.
I took the local communal taxi into the centre of Havana for 20 pesos. It passed the huge hotels with names familiar to any resort junky, the down a boulevard as wide as any in Paris or Rome lined with the Embassies of many of the worlds countries – South Africa but not Australia nor America. The largest was the Russian which seemed to occupy six blocks with its own tower holding antenna and satellite dishes. It had fallen into disrepair but must have been great in its day.
I was dropped off at the El Capitolio building which is a Neo Classical imitation of the Washington DC Capital building but with more intricate designs. It was built in 1929 but is now undergoing restoration so I was not able to go inside.
I headed off to the Museum of the Revolution housed in the former presidential palace built in 1920. It has a grand staircase at the entrance the many more as one tours through the rooms filled with picture and objects of the various local and overseas revolutions including the Angolan war where Cuba sent 30,000 troops to fight against the MPLA and the South African Forces.
Fidel Castro, Che, Roule and Cienfuegos and the other faces of the Cuban revolution are every where plus shots of them in the front line of the various battles. It was a great experience to read their history written by the Cubans.
I walked all over the city and took a hop on hop off bus tour with commentary in three languages. The best street is the retail street called Obispo. It is a narrow cobbled street with building dating from the 16 to the 19th C. Along the way are shops, houses and a few hotels, one was used by Earnest Hemingway himself. It had many pictures of the man unfortunately only a few when his was young but still it was exciting to walk the halls where the great man drank.
I spent two days walking the streets of Havana. It was full of people going about their daily lives, plus hundred of tourist from all parts of the world either walking the streets on tours or being bussed around in air conditioned coaches. I found some great paintings and some paper mashe fish which I purchase at CUC market for a song. They are now on the bulkhead of Malua along with the painting of sea scenes from the Caribbean.
Here are my observations of Cuba in no particular order of importance:
The Cubans are very friendly but be careful the hand of friendship soon turns up when they ask for gifts or handouts.
The people are very well educated but not worldly. Schools are free and 9.3 % of GDP is spend on all types of education. I dont know how they select who goes to what university.
They are healthy by any standard. There is 1 GP per 150 households. Medical and dental treatment is free, the standard of practice is high by world standards but basic medication is just that basic. Drugs from the west are not available.
Infant mortality is very low 4.3 per 1,000 births and mothers survival is very high.
The centrally controlled economy has adjusted to world events particularly the US embargo and the oil crisis – they returned to the ox and horse. The GFC just passed Cuba by without any effect.
There is a two tier financial system implemented to take the money from the tourists. The CUC at one to 25 local peso. This has forces people into trying to get CUC from tourists either by offering services or selling their handy crafts in the CUC markets. It has also created a middle class from those who can deal with the outside world.
There is no petty crime and nothing is stolen but be careful if you are caught dealing in the black market or with tourist when you are not allowed. Don’t be caught with drugs or be a prostitute, the jail terms are long and hard.
I would go again if I could or had the time and would recommend that cruisers spend at least a month in the country giving equal time to the cities as to cruising the souther shores.
Many magical moments on Malua.