Original account
2012-05-06 — Time to fly north again 2012
2012-05-18 — 2012 To-Do List
2012-05-25 — AIS Vesper Watchmate Transponder WMX850
2012-06-05 — More Power to Malua – D400 Wind Generator
2012-06-05 — Malua’s Proposed Route 2012
2012-06-11 — Satellite Phones and Software – Iridium 9555
2012-07-02 — Keeping my eye in
2012-07-05 — BIG Bird to Paris
2012-07-15 — Fast Train through France
2012-08-02 — Olympic Opening Cerimony
2012-08-10 — 2012 Cruise has Begun
2012-08-15 — The 2012 To-Do List
2012-08-15 — Water Wheels
2012-08-15 — Never Disturb a Frenchman on Lunch
2012-08-20 — Barcelona
2012-09-01 — The Spanish Mediterranean Coast
2012-09-01 — Ibiza
2012-09-15 — Death in the Afternoon
2012-09-23 — Night Passage to Mainland Spain
2012-10-01 — Nowhere to go but Madeira
2012-10-05 — Madeira
2012-10-11 — Madeira Levada or water canals
2012-10-12 — Passage to Morocco
2012-10-20 — Marrakech
2012-10-23 — Not enough time
2012-10-23 — Frenetic Fes
2012-10-29 — Leaving Rabat
2012-10-31 — Mohammedia
Time to fly north again 2012
2012-05-06
The leaves are turning a wonderful red and the nights are getting cold so it is time to plan to leave the Southern Hemisphere and return to the summer of the north. The birds left a few weeks ago but I have to wait because this year is going to be long but late in starting – I'm crossing the Atlantic.
I fly out of Sydney on 3 July via Dubai to Paris France. Our family always make that distinction of France because we once visited Parys pronounced the same as the one in France but this Parys is on the Vaal River in Northern Free State province of South Africa. It may have a replica of the Eiffel tower and have a river running through it BUT it does not have the vibrant culture, people or surroundings of France. I will not be returning to Parys but Paris …yes.
After a few days in Paris I travel by TGV to Arles and then take the bus to Port St Louis du Rhone and Navy Service where Malua has spent the winter. Hopefully I winterised the boat well and I wont find any freeze burst pipes. The winter has been cold this year. A friend had sheet ice round his boat in one of the canals. The task of getting Malua ready for the Atlantic crossing will start and last about three weeks.
The To-Do list is not dissimilar to last year although I am going to add a few extras pieces of essential/safety equipment. I started purchasing these items at the start of the year and have now assembled them here or have arrange to have some items sent to France or the UK.
The major items will be discussed over the next few weeks but just to wet your appetite they are: stand alone AIS, wind generator, intelligent regulator, excess voltage heatsink, new osmosis membrane for watermaler, EPIRB, underwater camera and many other items.
Of the major jobs on the To-Do list is to patch up the keel, install the wind generator on a stainless steel pole, anti-foul the bottom , reinstall the Fleming windvane, replace a few parts in the refrigerator/freezer, get the SSB sailmail working and finally secure all the items around the saloon which may fly about under robust sailing conditions.
This work list should keep me busy if the s/s pole can be made according to my design but one knows the French tradesmen – “I am too busy to take on more work.” but I have been waiting four months for you to complete my job! “Sorry come back in a month”. It has started already but I cant wait to get back on the boat.
2012 To-Do List
2012-05-18
Design of new wind generator installation
Cruising it is said is doing maintenance in exotic locations. Having spent almost three years fitting Malua out in the yard when I went sailing in the Pacific I made a rule that I would only do work on the boat on Sunday – my day off. That strategy worked well even when Malua reached the Mediterranean. It is based on the premise that when I set out each year on a cruise Malua is in tip top condition with all the systems working. However through time some items on the To-Do list just don't get ticked off or new items added.
With the pending Atlantic crossing I have decided to add a few extra items to Malua which were not necessary for coastal trips or I had removed after the Pacific cruise – the windvane self steering, wind generator are examples.
Here is this years To-do list – in no particular order:
Create a stainless steel wind generator installation pole
Wire and install wind generator including regulator and power dump
Fit AIS Vesper system including loud alarm
Purchase Satellite Phone and hook up to computer system
Fix marks in keel
Anti-foul the bottom
Reinstall the wind self steering
Install second VHF antenna on top of mast as backup
Clean Generator water system and renew anti-freeze/boil
Re-install water maker membrane and test systems
Replace mast head light with LED
Replace broken steaming lights
Make grey water and bilge water collection tank and hook up pumps
Reinstall high volume engine driven bilge pump
Have life raft serviced and replace ERIRP with 406
Service electric winches
Grease windlass and rudder shaft bearing
Replace engine water impeller
Regaz/test deep freeze and test new control unit
Update C-map charts and clear last ten year tracks
Secure books in self
Fit extra safety catches to all cupboards and floor hatches
I think that will do for the time being. It excludes the main items of putting the sails, halyards and lines on Malua and the general getting ready to go to sea but that has its own to-do list developed over the years. It takes three days of work to accomplish those tasks.
AIS Vesper Watchmate Transponder WMX850
2012-05-25
When I built Malua I set-out to select the very best equipment on the world market. That was around 2000 to 2004. I took hours looking at catalogues, reading reviews in hard copy magazines and talking to many, many people. I had been sailing all my life so I knew roughly what I wanted. I definitely knew the brands I would not touch with a barge pole both hardware and electronics. Malua was finally launched with the best equipment to suit my sailing requirements. I have added extras over time as the requirement is needed.
At one time I would not put a wind generator on Malua but with the technological advances in blade design the noise that the new ones make is quite acceptable so it is now time to install a modern designed wind generator – more on that later.
One item that was missing on the original list is an AIS (Automatic Identification System) Transponder. It has taken a number of years for the technology to mature and the airwaves to be cleared of non-AIS traffic but today there are a number of units that reach my look-at list.
The requirements are simple: a stand alone unit – not connected to a computer (if the computer does not work your AIS wont help you and having seen too many blue screens of death I wont depend on a windows PC).
The second is a transponder. It is all very well to see another vessel but why not put the obligation on them to take action to avoid you. If you don't transmit your position then it is all up to you. Remember COLREGS Rule 5 …..proper look-out by sight and hearing as well as by all available means. The last phrase is the key one. Therefore the AIS must broadcast your position and course.
The third criteria was low power usage because it will be on all the time while making a ocean crossing and one doesn't want to drain the battery just for the unit to wait for a passing ship.
The fourth was the features which had to include all the normal CPA (Closest Point of Approach) etc. but more importantly if the vessel will pass ahead or astern of you if you maintain your course. This element is missing in many brands of AIS – why I don't know.
Having studied the market and followed the blogs and discussion groups it came down to two units: the Simrad A150 because all the other electronic equipment on Malua is Simrad. However I rejected this unit because it was 1st generation and their service record for old equipment is very poor.
General Display
The second unit from Vesper Marine has been developing over the years with very good reviews. I chose the Watchmate WMX850 as the best in line prior to the launch of a touch screen model. I then set about sourcing the unit. These days of the Internet it is only a click away no matter who sells the unit. To my surprise I discovered the manufacturer Vesper Marine is a New Zealand company. The local Australian distributor, a company I have had an issue with in the past, has as its manager an old acquaintance who has moved around a bit but now sells these units. One phone call and two days latter the new Watchmate was in my hands. A great price, good service and I know a great support mind if I ever need it.
Vessel Info
As with all previous equipment I set it up on a makeshift panel and switched it on in the front room of my coast house. Bingo two tankers passing up the coast 38nm miles away. Well that is very good because that is well over the horizon and I would have thought out of VHF range. I was able to track them as the passed abeam of my signal on the cliff top. I wonder what they though of this yacht about 200m inland!
The display is simple to read and indicates if a vessel will come within your target range. It has an option of excluding a vessel which may be accompanying you on the same path and you don't want it to set off an alarm all the time. This is an issue in a rally and especially annoying with most radars.
CPA Screen
The unit lets you easily change the range from harbour, coastal and ocean and also exclude vessels at anchor. It has all the normal features regarding the target vessel's details, course, speed and direction so that is not exceptional.
It captures weather reports and can send a AIS Mayday message from the transponder which will supplement the DSC distress message. Hope I never have to use this or even receive one.
I also like the USB and RS323 port outputs so you can integrate the system into my current chart plotter or computer tracking systems. I have added a loud alarm which should wake the dead.
I purchased a stand alone GPS receiver unit and an additional ¼ wave length antenna so it will not directly interfere with the other VHF antennas transmissions. Both units will be mounted next to the solar panels on the aft structure.
Now all that is required is Malua and some water.
UPDATE
I installed the device and attached the GPS to the stern stainless steel structure – it also hold the two solar panels. The metal of the GPS is grounded to the stainless steel.
After using the Watchmate three times it would not switch on. Removing it from the bulkhead I could see that a component in the Watchmate had burnt out.
I contacted the Oz agent who put me in touch with the designer who after a few questions analysed the problem. It seems that the GPS should be totally stand alone with no contact with the ships negative. The exchange of emails with Vespermarine was the most impressive service I have ever received from any supplier. Immediate, direct and with the knowledge of their product and how it works on a vessel. They have dispatched a new unit for me and will wait to take mine apart when it finds it's way out of the French postal system – now there is a story.
More Power to Malua – D400 Wind Generator
2012-06-05
While Malua relies on wind to sail to her destinations there is not always sufficient to make the trip either pleasant or safe so we turn to the iron spinnaker – the Yanmar 50 HP engine. To start it one need power in the form of a starter battery which I always keep well charged. On the other hand the house batteries are being depleted every hour we are sailing. I found while sailing in the Pacific where the trips are much longer that on the second day just when the crew was getting tired the power in the main battery bank was down to about 60% – the level they should be charged so the Master engineer switched on the engine to charge the battery and everybody's sleep is disrupted not a good situation.
After returning from cruising in the Pacific I installed an additional 400ah of batteries and separated the electronics from the motor units from the place they dray their power. Motors make a noise on the radio and disturbed the electronic such as chart plotters so separation was the order of the day. Malua now has two (three with starter battery) banks totalling 1000 amp hours. Clearly sufficient to drive all the electrics and electronic goodies on the vessel.
Over time the energy does however get used and the batteries have to be recharged. I have in the past relied on a purpose build 13 HP Kupota diesel engine with a 150 amp Leese Nenille DC alternator. Now that can charge the batteries through an smart regulator in a few hours. Because it is independent of the main engine it can fulfill other functions like make water and heat the shower water while not putting extra hours on the main engine.
In addition I have two sets of 75 watt Siemens solar panels generating energy when the sun is shining but as any one knows in the Tropics the sun doesn't always shine and at night the batteries get no charge. The answer to this problem my friends is a wind generator. After reading numerous blogs and books the bottom line comment on this source of energy is great, free but very very noisey. I must say having been in a anchorage down wind of some wind generators I agree.
HOWEVER the technology has advanced and the design of the wind blades has also come a long way. In the early days to keep the cost down they had two, then three and even four blades. The one I have chosen has five blades.
The D400 from Eclectic Energy. I actually purchased it from Electricsonboard a hands-on supplier because they supply a rather sophisticated dual output smart regulator and dump resistor. They are going to deliver the unit to Malua in France at the start of July. After years of research both via the web and standing down wind of any types of generator I found to my pleasure the D400 made very little if any noise in moderate and high wind situations. This freedom from noise comes at a cost (doesn't everything good) That of Pounds and weight. The later being 17kg which puts it at the top of the tree on both counts.
The challenge now is to design a tower or pole for Malua and have it made in France. I have emailed three stainless steel manufactures in French asking if they can make my design. So far no response. So my next move is to arrive with a fist full of euros (getting bigger every day) and get them to do the job in three weeks. The design is below but that is only the physically visible side. The major work is in the wiring and set-up to integrate into my current charging and selection system. I enjoy that challenge and have created a fail safe regime for all four charging sources able to manually charge the three battery banks. I don't like electronic switches which have the ability to fail when least wanted and burn some component out. With this system if I switch the wrong switch I will immediately see the puff of smoke when the second line of defence fails. Hopefully never.
Now I only need Malua, water and some wind.
Malua’s Proposed Route 2012
2012-06-05
After the initial dash eastwards during the first year Malua has been cruising Westward. It is now time to cross the Atlantic. I have got a great crew together. We will set off from the Canaries during the second of third week of November before the rabble of the ARC spread across the sea. Below is the proposed route weather permitting.
Satellite Phones and Software – Iridium 9555
2012-06-11
Being able to communicate any time and anywhere is a very reassuring thing especially if one is way out on the blue ocean. Sailor of old left dispatches at the last port hoping that another vessel would pick them up and deliver to the destination before they reached their home port. With the invention of the radio it improved the communication although the radio operator on the Titanic did not get through to save the passengers and did go down with the ship.
The development of the SSB radio again improved the communications between ship and shore but more importantly between ship and ship especially the different nets that have sprung up around the world as yachts start to gather in different places. I enjoyed the Med Net on 8122Mhz every morning while sailing in the Mediterranean. It formed a sort of sailing community indifferent locations.
The advent of sailmail and the ability to send and receive emails via a ground station and your SSB with a pactor modem again took a large step forward in assisting the communications loop.
With the advent of the satellites and the addition of the Sat phone the communications improved one big step for yachties and mankind. The cost of using the service as is, is very high, so one turns to technology to assist you save a buck or two. Here is where the fun starts. Compression technology is old hat both on disks, phone lines and over the airwaves so developing some software to communicate using a sat phone should be a simple task standing on the shoulders of others in the open source environment.
Just do a search of the web and you are inundated with entries from just one company. It offers a range of tantalising software on various platforms dominated of course by windows but also includes Linux. Well download the software and try and install it according to the obscure reference in the install manual and all you get is an icon on your Linux desktop! X marks the spot for nothing to happen. It wont load using the standard install process. Contact the support help desk and you get initially an email to read the manual and then told to use some outdated installer given away more than three years ago. When challenged why not use a more appropriate modern install all you get it read the manual and a picture of the X software running on a 2008 platform on a virtual machine as the Root user. Well what can one say. Get real and if this is the level of support one gets from a vendor think what it will be like when you really have a problem and your hard earned money is ticking away each second.
ON THE OTHER HAND an alternative vendor who U all know because it has been around since Adam does respond immediately even on a Sunday night with good advice. So after a few commands and a removal of some offending software the Linux installation of the communication software under Linux works just fine and I can download a GRIB file, send a SMS and email to anyone, any where and any time.
While I'm still not ecstatic I am now more secure using my Linux Ubuntu in foreign countries sitting in Internet cafés or sending unsecured messages to the web using software and an operating system not often used by the spammers and hackers of the world because of its in built security.
Keeping my eye in
2012-07-02
While waiting to start the sailing season I decided to keep my hand and
eye in train in my wood working skills. Not that I have to do any
renovations on Malua this season but after fitting Malua out from a bare
shell I have all the tools and more than enough wood to do the whole
project again. Rest assured I would not start that willingly so I found
another project to keep the tools and my eye sharp.
Build some outdoor wood chairs. Do we have any..yes but steel not wood.
OK what wood will I use. The lovely rich red myrtle I used in the boat
is carefully stacked next to the workshop ready for some deserving
project so that would not do and I would not purchase wood. I had to
find some extra wood. Just that week a house in the next street was
starting to be demolished as they do these days tear down the old and up
with the new. This house was built about the same time as ours in 1963
and used the same Australian timber for the roof and floor beams. Strong
hard wood well seasoned.
I spoke to the foreman and asked if I could take some of the beams
before the dump truck arrived. Come tomorrow to another site and I will
have them ready for you was his reply. I arrived and he loaded four 5
meter long floor beams into the back of the VW combi all for a carton of
VB beer. The best deal I have done for a long time.
I have the wood now the design. Unlike the last set of chairs I made I
did not go to the local museum and measure up a chair in the display
area. I sat down with tape, paper and a good eraser and designed the
chair. With the wood I had, I estimated I could make six chair to go
round the table I made from the roof beams of our neighbours house.
Another recycle project.
Now the hard work, cutting the rough timber into the correct length
pieces and preparing the timber for final trimming and finishing. Let me
tell you a five meter by 400 by 20cm solid hard wood beam is not the
easiest piece of timber to cut. My table saw required a new sharp blade
after just half the job. The band saw blade broke after 10 back legs and
the dust bag from the planner needed emptying twice during the project.
It seemed to go on and on. Of course the cold winter weather of Canberra
did not help – I was working outside because of the dust. With
temperature below freezing at night so I was only game to go outside
after 11:00 each morning and then wearing gloves. It started to get dark
soon after 4:00 so that is not a long day on any project.
After three weeks of cutting, planing and sanding all the pieces were
ready to be assembled. This next stage required that I only do the
gluing when the temperature was above 10 degrees C so that limited the
time for gluing and clamping. The project stretched on and on.
After weeks, the six chairs where assembled and ready for the first coat
of varnish. More limitations due to the drying temperature of the
varnish. Well, after many weeks the final coat was applied and the
chairs are now ready to be used around the timber table. I will have to
wait for next summer for the temperature to rise and I can then enjoy a
cold glass of wine sitting on the wood chairs knowing that my
woodworking skills are still sharp.
BIG Bird to Paris
2012-07-05
I arrived at Sydney airport with a large bag and a heavy hand- luggage. Just how heavy my large bag was, became evident when I put it on the scale. 35Kg Now that is seriously over weight 5 kg. I know that Dubai would not handle bags over 32Kg so money could not buy my way through. The handbag was 12 Kg for a limit of 6Kg. I chose a quiet corner and proceeded to go through what was in the bag. I had previously decided what would have to go from the bag. The two cruising guides went into my flour bag – especially packed for the purpose, as reading matter. The zink anode for the propeller went into my hand luggage as did some antenna wire and GPS receiver and other things.
I then set about transferring the weight from my hand-luggage to my special coat with large pockets. The drives and external drives went into the pockets, the phones and radio went onto my belt. The computers Del laptop and ASUS eePC in my hand. I then fronted the on-line check-in desk – no waiting line and presented my pass. Within seconds I was done and through check-in. Return to quiet corner and put all the heavy stuff on my person into the hand luggage.
At the security I took out all the computers etc out and placed them in the boxes. As I walked through the scanner my bag set off the red light on the X-ray scanner. "Please come with me sir" "What are these metal items?" Well I am a master of a vessel and that is a copper pipe expander and that is a zink anode – its not iron. "Sir I will have to ask my supervisor" "Sorry sir you cant take that pipe expander but this zink I will have to ask the top supervisor."
After some quick smart words, the fellow said I could take it…… have a safe crossing of the Atlantic.
I then boarded the largest commercial airliner in the world. The airbus A3800-800. First and business class board through separate entrances on the top level. Being in the front I could see the captains cabin. The seats are wide, with good leg room. I think the food is more than OK. My flight was Sydney to Dubai a 17.5 hour not stop flight. I slept most of the way.
Arriving in Dubai there was a three hour delay then again aboard the plain with between 853 only economy and 540 people if they have first and business. Think of the number of bags to transfer on and off at the Dubai if all of their 35 A380 landed and took off at the same time.
Before I knew it the 6 hours had flown and I was in Paris France. No return ticket and only two heavy bags to get through the underground.
Fast Train through France
2012-07-15
Part of the preparation of putting Malua in the water was to install a number of new items purchased over the past few months. Because of the lack of security at the marina offices I decided after committing to go and see my sick cousin in Worcester that I could have a few items sent to their address. The number of items increased so it was obvious that I would again need my large suitcase, empty to start with.
Bright idea! Take the cruising guides we had used while in the Med to the UK and post them surface mail to home. After going through the bookshelf the suitcase was full. Little did I realise the weight of these books. I was back into the regime of heavy cases but this time I was travelling by train so no limit except for me to carry up and down the many stairs associated with undergrounds/tubes and trains.
The route was Port St Louis via the TGV to Paris, Eurostar to London then local train to Worcester. The only train to make the connection left Arles at 6:53 am in the morning. No bus from the marina so the marina organised a lift at 5:30am to Arles.
I slept through the first alarm but as usual on important days like these, I set a second which woke me 10 minutes later. I rushed to make the car.
I arrived early at Arles station and caught the local train to Nimes then the fast TGV train to Paris. After some negotiations through the station I found the International train line and settled down to wait for the track number to be displayed. The earlier train was delayed and 20 minutes before my train was to leave I asked for the track number but was told to wait. I thought that was not right and set about finding the boarding area. Well it was full of people from the early train and the one after mine. I struggled through the congestion and finally got through passport control and x-ray security to rush towards the open doors and the platform when a man stepped in my way and said….. "Sorry this train is closed and leaving". I pointed out that the doors where in fact open to the platform and I was in time. "Sorry I will book you on the next train".
Now, I knew that I had timed my connection with the train to Worcester with one hour 10 minutes in hand so a delay of 30 minutes I could still make the connection.
We arrived at Kings Cross and I had to get the tube to Paddington. But first a ticket. Fine I had the money but not the correct change. Now the British are a proper race of people and would not take your money without giving you the chance to object so enter you money in the machine BUT if you put too much in, the British don't like that. At my first attempt the money is refunded. OK start again, get to the same screen… You have paid too much do you accept that no change will be given… press Yes or No. What a choice with only minutes to get to the tube.
OK get to Paddington. Now get the ticket I had prebook using my British credit card which had expired. Please enter card and the 8 numbers and letter of your booking. "Sorry you did not book this ticket with this card." Clock ticks on and the train is waiting…. Insert next card…. "Thank you for purchasing a ticket on British Rail." and out comes three tickets. Find the carriage and seat number.
Run for platform 3 and the train to Worcester. The guard is standing with his flag as I pass him and 3 1st class carriages and attempt to find my carriage C. The guard blows his whistle and I jump aboard. Stow my bag somewhere and walk two carriages down to find my seat. I did not need to go to the gym today I have lost more than enough perspiration rushing to Paddington but I had made the connection and I was on my way to Worcester, arriving 16 hours after setting off. A two hour flight would have done it but I would not have again carried my 30Kg of cruising guides.
Olympic Opening Cerimony
2012-08-02
How short our memorys are? Do you remember the great event that was Sydney? A bicycle the frew in the sky. The greatwide open spaces. What I saw was non productive agriculture, smoke stacks and a fellow who could not play the piano. The ordinaryness of Britian is just that… average. When will GB be Great again?
2012 Cruise has Begun
2012-08-10
Malua left Port St Louis three days ago for a dream crossing of the gulf and we are now on the coast of Spain on the boarder with France. The coast line is very much like that of the Balearics with rocky coves and indents. As always in August there are a lot of day trippers who thankfully leave in the evening and a few cruisers stay to enjoy the tranquillity of a great anchorage.
A magical moment on Malua
The 2012 To-Do List
2012-08-15
Cruising is inevitably about doing boat maintenance in exotic places however it is all based on how well prepared your vessel is before you set off for those exotic places. In the case of Malua I strongly believe that a well prepared vessel will visit more exotic places before it need maintenance.
With this in mind I set about tackling this years to do list, made longer by the fact that last year Malua was not a proper yacht and many of the systems and items were not used in the French Canals. In addition to that I added a wind generator which is a major electrical and physical addition to the boat. The AIS was also added and wired into the other systems.
As with all list they had to be priorities using some principle which in my case changed over time as the time to launch drew closer. Items that I thought were important moved down the list as I ran out of time believing I could do them while cruising. As with all boat list it get longer as one discovers new things that need repair or just regular anti-rust maintenance. Not to list all items but to record the major achievements prior to cruising I have listed just a few jobs accomplished:
* Installed Vespermarine Watchmate 850 AIS
* Installed new external GPS and independent AIS antenna
* Fitted rope cutter
* Serviced and reassembled Autoprop propeller Blade 1
* Added new switch panel to switch box to accommodate added equipment
* Fitted Eclectic Energy D400 wind generator on stainless steel pole
* Wired in Karasouli 2 bank regulator and dump resistor
* Rewired three battery banks to accommodate new setup
* Polished topsides
* Touched up boot-straps with navy blue paint
* Changed to Navy blue Micron Extra antifouling about 3 litres
* Cleaned generator water cooler and added Castrol rust inhibitor
* Spliced eye into new main halyard
* Install LED in anchor, masthead navigation and stern lights
* Install new LED navigation lights on bow
* Install additional antenna at mast head (why? Just in case)
* Fixed dings in keel and epoxy, under coated damaged areas
* Run lines and halyards
* Bind on all sails
That is the list that will be recorded as completed. Still to be done is outboard, water maker, wind vane and new grey water container.
Malua also needed a good clean in all areas because the Meltemi can blow in Port St Louis and fill every crack and crevis with a black dust which just wont go away easily but that will have to wait for another day.
Water Wheels
2012-08-15
My water wheels finally said enough. The Yamaha 8 HP outboard purchased in New Zealand decided to stop never to go again, just when it was needed most. Malua is now in the Costa Brava of Spain which is rocky with few places to stay but all requiring a dingy to get to shore. A day or two ago I had to swim to get the us back to the boat so yesterday we went to Cadaques, rented a mooring and took the water taxi to shores to acquire a new outboard. The Information Centre’s map indicated a marine chandler so off we walked to find it.
There right in the front of the shop was a selection of small outboards. The lady assistant, in her best Spanish tried to tell be the advantages of one over the other but there is only one outboard for me – Yamaha. I had looked at purchasing a similar one before in Greece but the time was not right then but now there was no option. Hand over the plastic, enter the PIN and I am the owner of a brand new 2.5 HP fourstroke outboard. Up on my shoulder and back to the water taxi and we are mobile again – with less chance someone would steal the outboard.
Never Disturb a Frenchman on Lunch
2012-08-15
Infact never disturb a Frenchman any time to do any work. My experience in Port St Louis was that they did not wish to work at all.
Now the AIS I posted at $170 is sitting in Marseille Chonopost Customs section for more than a week waiting on some paperwork. No contact via email just a short terse statement on the tracking system.
An update. there is no way one can communicate with the French Post except via phone which has as you expect a series of menus. Press any key and try to speak to someone just get a response of "no English" and switched back to the menu. Fine what alternative — None. Get a fax number and fax a request – on lunch.
Send an email? to what address – again on lunch
So register as a user. Send and email to the response – again on lunch.
The tracking system records — no response within the time limit: return to sender – fine that is Australia. Next entry insufficient documentation. Sorry we are on lunch.
The international postal union is the next recipient of my emails, fax and phone calls.
Not a Magic Moment on Malua
Barcelona
2012-08-20
What a great city. It is made for bicycles and people. I dont know about cars but one can ride all over the place either in special bike lanes with their own traffic signals or on designated paths or even on the sidewalk which have road crossing up and down ramps. What a great joy to ride except over the last few days it has been HOT and I mean HOT with not a breath of wind so riding has been confined to early mornings or later in the afternoon.
I visited Antonio Gaudi Sagrada Familia and went inside to look at the columns. They are just like a forest reaching up into the top of a wonderful canopy. The most dramatic church I have visited. The choir stalls will hold 1000 choristers – now that must be a sound. Only one organ at the moment but planned to have four. The two finished sides of the outside are interesting – the one old world the other new world style sculptures. The third has not been started and is just concrete and reinforcing rods.
Two more days before i set sail south to ports unknown.
Starting to be a magical moment on Malua
The Spanish Mediterranean Coast
2012-09-01
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The following are an extract from the post on my new sat phone blog found at http://www.blog.mailasail.com/harryws20
Start of the cruise.
Malua left Port St Louis three days ago for a dream crossing of the gulf and we are now on the coast of Spain on the boarder with France. The coast line is very much like that of the Balearics with rocky coves and indents. As always in August there are a lot of day trippers who thankfully leave in the evening and a few cruisers stay to enjoy the tranquillity of a great anchorage.
First days in Spanish Cala
Malua is at 42:19.35N 03:18.55E on 10/8/2012
We left our initial point of arrival and started into the cruising mode by moving to one of the less popular Calas along the coast. There were as always the day trippers and a few extra. My sunset the day trippers had left for the night spots and restaurants of the flesh pot and a few cruiser settled down to a quiet drink in the calm of a wonderful anchorage. The sun soon dropped behind the cliffs and the night was upon us.
Tomorrow the same but this time we will sail down/ south along the coast to another inlet and they day will be repeated – hard life this cruising.
A magical moment on Malua
Water Wheels
Malua is at 42:18.34N 03:17.43E at Playa Guillola on 12/8/2012
My water wheels finally said enough. The Yamaha 8 HP outboard purchased in New Zealand decided to stop never to go again, just when it was needed most. Malua is now in the Costa Brava of Spain which is rocky with few places to stay but all requiring a dingy to get to shore. A day or two ago I had to swim to get the us back to the boat so yesterday we went to Cadaques, rented a mooring and took the water taxi to shores to acquire a new outboard. The Information Centre’s map indicated a marine chandler so off we walked to find it.
There right in the front of the shop was a selection of small outboards. The lady assistant, in her best Spanish tried to tell be the advantages of one over the other but there is only one outboard for me – Yamaha. I had looked at purchasing a similar one before in Greece but the time was not right then but now there was no option. Hand over the plastic, entre the PIN and I am the owner of a brand new 2.5 HP fourstroke outboard. Up on my shoulder and back to the water taxi and we are mobile again – with less chance someone would steal the outboard.
French Parcel Service
Malua is at 41:50.7N 03:07.6E on 15/8/2012
Today was the first time I could connect to the Internet and to my dismay I typed in the Tracking number of my AIS parcel and found it has been sitting in Marseilles' Customs for a few days waiting for some documentation which would materialise from somewhere without any contact. Amazing. My second experience with French postal service not delivering.
Palmos
Malua is at 41:50.54N 03:07.59E on 21/8/2012
Stopped in here to get out of the wind and rock and rolly sea. Spend one day in Euro 75 per night with very poor internet. Frustrated by French Customs and inability to communicate with them.
Crew not cooperating and off on her own thing. Finally resolved to dump her when she refused to make phone call to French Customs. Dropped her on the dock. Not a sight her fans would like to see.
An improving moment on Malua
Barcelona
Malua is at 41:23.22N 02:12.04E Port Olympic Barcelona on 21/08/2012
Great marina at a reasonable price and in a area to get fruit and food. Have dined out two nights in a row. The Restaurant on Malua is still the best in town although the tapas in some bars are great.
Plenty of room with only self on board.
Watchmate problem solved and now on its way to Sydney. The issue is grounding the GPS antenna which is a known issue but not communicated to me the installer burnt the component in the unit. The designer has been very helpful with almost instant email. Now to see what the cost will be.
Toured Barcelona on the bike but it got too hot so took a tourist open top bus. Commentary is very good but very slow.
A magical moment on Malua
Rio Ebro
Malua is currently at Puerto del Fangar 40:48.9N 00:44.3E
The day started early with the tasks to leave a marina, fill the tanks with water, collect bread and disconnect the electricity. Today I also had to return the electrical plug and access key. The plug was a French special which is only supplied by the marina for a euro 70 deposit so returning it is an essential part of leaving.
I called in at the fuel dock and with one word handed over the belongings of the former French crew. Not a work of thanks spoken. Hopefully the end of that chapter in the French story.
Off out the marina past the huge dock of Barcelona and south down the coast. The wind did not come up as expected and 13 long hour later and 89 nautical miles I dropped anchor outside the delta of the Rio Ebro as the clock struck four bells – mid-night.
Another long day tomorrow towards Valencia and then across to the Balearics.
Isolates Columbretes
Malua is at 39:53.75N 00:41.18E on 23/8/2012
Yesterday I set out from Barcelona on passage to Ibiza. It is some distance and as usual on these occasions in the Mediterranean there is either no wind or the wind in on the nose. I pointed Malua’s bow south along the coast heading for the delta of the Rio Ebro which appeared to give me some respite from the consistent southerly swell over the shallow waters of the delta. I left this anchorage early the following morning and headed out again right into the wind with a very choppy short sea. Not much progress into the swell and little wind but as the afternoon progresses the wind filled in and I started to sail. 12 then 14 knots of wind on the nose. I chose an angle into the wind in the direction of my destination Ibiza but expected to have a long all night passage.
As the sun started to sink into the west I noticed a black dot on the horizon and zoomed in on the chart plotter. There right in front of me was an island. The cruising guide indicated that it was a marine reserve and the remains of an extinct volcano. The centre is deep, deep but the authorities have laid some mooring buoys that one can pick up. So with the light fading Malua entered the circle of rocks which is the extinct volcano of Isolates Columbretes. Much to my surprise it is much larger that the chart indicated. There where a number of mooring buoys to which a few yachts and fishing vessels where attached. I chose one and make myself fast. I took a quick swim to inspect the condition of the mooring and retired to cook myself a well earned steak and have a sip of some good French wine. Off to sleep to the gentle rock and roll of the swell. Much better than a long night at the helm.
Tomorrow it is the cruising grounds of Ibiza
Ibiza
2012-09-01
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Malua is at 39:06,67N 01:30,79E
After a long slow beat into the wind Malua covered the 66 nm miles from Islotes Columbretes to the northern coast of Ibiza and I dropped anchor in the wide bay of Cala Portinatx along with a number of other yachts and stink boats. It was good to get back into the cruising frame of mind. How close are you to me and into the calas and coves of the Balearics.
Malua handled the crossing from mainland Spain to the Balearics in the true style of a cruising yacht – with easy.
A magical moment on Malua
Malua in Cruising Mode
Malua is currently at 38:52,07N 01:18,09 at Cala Port Roig
The wind rose in a few minutes as it always does in the middle of the night and I found myself close to a lee shore. I was sure the anchor was well dug in to I lay listening to the wind in the rigging. Just to be sure I got up and to my surprise the 54ft Halber Rassie which was anchored next to me was right on the rocks. The family was from Panama and we had spend a few minutes discussing the cruising in his country the previous day. Their lights came on and a torch was shone on the ever closing rocks. Before I knew it there was a bang and then the master fired up his engine and steamed away from the shore, dragging his anchor as he moved forward. On the bow was his son of not more than 12 years – handling the situation well. They came away from the rocks but the over large catamaran that – of course anchored after dark was now bearing down of the same lee shore. It was time for Malua to start up her engines just in case we had to move at a moments notice. I must say the cat master skilfully manoeuvred his craft away from the rocks and re-anchored all in one move. The Halber Rassie on the other hand circled the anchorage not making his mind up as there where he would try to re-anchor. After a long time he chose a spot on my port side a good distance off. Down went the anchor and it held. I could now switch off the engine and return to bed.
After the sun was will up I decided I needed to get out of this anchorages and find another place for the following night. Up anchor and up sail and off we went down wind along the northern coast of Ibiza.
It was a great sail until I had to turn the corner and sail up wind along the eastern coast. There are a number off lying island which had to be negotiated. One passage had only 10 meters of water and as the cruising guide said the wind funnels between the mainland and the island and the sea can get quite rough. Yes in excess of 27 knits of wind and a very choppy sea. Malua struggled onto the choppy sea but after about 2 hour popped out the other side into the open sea. Now to find a sheltered anchorage for the afternoon and evening.
Malua is now in a Cala Port Roig along with more than 20 other vessels but there is no rock and roll and I will sleep well again tonight.
Another magic moment on Malua
Malua crossing the Greenwich Meridium
Malua was at 37:54.306N 0:00.0W on 29/08/2012 at sea off Spain
The moon is full, the wind at 23 knots is aft of the beam and we are running down the coast of Spain to wards Gibraltar touching our hull speed of 8.4 knots. What a great sail.
I was watching the GPS as is ticked down 0:00 East to 0:00 West so we crossed the Greenwich meridian and Malua is again in the Western Hemisphere. Not since 2006 has Malua been in the western hemisphere but then we crossed the international date line at 180 – exactly the other side of the world. We were sailing along the coast of Fiji when we moved from E to W on the GPS now we are back.
The next great crossing will be back into the Southern hemisphere
Cartagena
Malua is at 37:35.761N 00:58.74W at Cartagena
The ocean and weather is so unpredictable which makes sailing challenging and rewarding. Having posted the last blog when Malua crossed the Prime Meridian the weather started to change and change it did. The wind rose from the pleasant 15 knots to 20 then 30 and finally at the height of the storm the gust where a lot more than 40 knots. Malua was running before the wind with the genoa poled out and the full main. Well first I put one reef in which is easily done. Then as the wind increased I pulled the second reef in the main. Now that is not so easy because one has to get the main off the stays so it means changing course more side on to the wind and of course the waves which had by this time build in to white cap rollers. Denny is usually in charge of stowing all things down below and not having her on board I had not done the usual diligent job so turning side on to the waves to pull in the reef resulted on a few major bangs from down below as items rearranged themselves either in cupboards, bookshelves or just on counter tops landing on the floor. My cupboard which I usually bolt flew open and deposited most of the items on the floor. Remember to prepare Malua for the sea not just going to sea.
Having pulled in the second reef and furled the genoa Malua was still surfing down the waves at more than 7 knots. But the moon was full and the wind aft of the beam, its warm so what more could one ask for….. well a lot of thunder and lightening, rain is of course what came next. So out with the wet weather gear.
I arrived at Cartagena at about 5:00 am and the wind is still blowing but the bay gives one protection from the sea so I slipped behind a high headland and dropped and stowed the sails and cleaned up down below.
With things ship shape I motored into the port just ahead of two tugs dragging a large ship into the entrance. I arrived at the marina with not a sole in sight and the wind still blowing at 25 knots so I just nosed Malua into a dock and made her secure. Now for a good sleep.
Death in the Afternoon
2012-09-15
When Hemingway romanticised the bull fights and bull fighters of Spain many years ago they were, I am sure, not as scripted as the fight I saw in the small Plaza de Toros of Torrimalimos. I had read Hemingway's account many years ago and thought I understood the ritual but as the afternoon wore on I realised that today the authorities have ensured that the script is followed.
The arena in Torrimamilinos is quite small, it was only half full and the event has held on a Thursday afternoon. We had taken a bus to the town and walked up the hill to the venue arriving early to purchase our tickets “Sombra” in the shade. We joined a good crowed at a local pub to have a few beers before the event.
After a parade of carrages around the ring and the traditional sounding of the trumpet fan fare the bull enters. He runs out of the dark tunnel into the bright light of the arean and is attracted to a scarlet cape in the far corner held by a toreador, he charges over only to see the cape disappear behind a sturdy wooden barrier, then an other cape appears opposite and he charges towards that, but that too disappears, then a third when at last the matador with the same colour cape appears and does some rather nice passes with the bull who at this time is fresh with no wounds. The crowd love this section and ole and call out. This is what I came to see.
But the script prescribes that the cape again appears from behind a barrier and the bull's attention is held as two well padded and blindfolded horses plod into the arena. One stand in front of the judges box and a man on foot attracted the bull's attention. The matador flashes a cape and the bull again charges then he sees the horse but he is only a few meters away so he charges the horse and tries to lift it off its feet but during this session the picador stabs him in the top of his neck with a long lance and inflects a massive wound in the top of his neck. The dark red blood flows down his side read for a skilled matador to brush against.
Now the real brave blokes come into the arena with two long barbed sticks. The stand with arms raised and call the bull, he rushes towards them but they scamper off to one side and as the bull passes stick the ??? into his neck. Brave men. They disappear behind the screen as the bulls attention is taken by the capes.
Now is the time of the matador who is supposed to spend time judging the bull and his charge, and if he charges straight or tosses left or right. The matador has now changed to a heavy red cape which is held out with a sword. The bull charges at the red movement with is head low but to no avail, it is always in front of him. Charge and turn. Charge and turn. No Matador or movement in front of him. At times he stops just to get his breath. The top of his neck is just a mass of blood as the initial jab bleeds and the ??? swing from side to side. I understand that they are used to lower the bulls head so that the matador can get a clear sword strike behind the shoulder right into the heart.
The next ritual is for the matador with the sword drawn get the bull to charge closer and closer to his body and to turn at the end but not to fall. The closer and the better the turn and the crowed roar their approval. Finally when the bull is exhausted and his head has dropped the matador stand ready with a new sword outstretched towards the bull, cape lowered and the bull charges with head down. A good matador will insert the sword with one swift movement right up to the hilt and the bull will turn, look at the matador and fall over dead. That occurred once of the six bulls that entered the ring. On more than one occasion the sword hit bone and sprang away. On another the matador missed and the bull got his cape while a particularly brave bull was given a reprieve by the judge, first a orange then a green handkerchief over the front of the judges box and the matador backs off and the bull runs out of the arena.
As soon as the bull falls over the assistances run in and cleanly kill the bull with a sharp knife to a spot behind the head. The two mules then come in and the butcher drags the bull out of the ring to be slaughtered.
The ritual occurred six times during our afternoon, scripted almost to the minute. The matador had very little to work with and in my opinion the bulls moved quite slowly with little initiative. I must say the bull that got the reprieve did charge more than the others and did not look down but held his head up high. It was never an even contest but the script ensures that it does not get out of hand. The crowed in the arena was quite thin and I would say not very well educated so we did not get the response that I would have expected.
I doubt that I would go again but bull fighting is so much part of the Spanish national tradition I could not miss the event.
Night Passage to Mainland Spain
2012-09-23
Formentera in the south of Ibiza is definitely the party island of the area. The beaches have white sand and the water is turquoise blue. If the wind blows from the west you sit on the eastern shore of the narrow peninsular if it changes you stroll over to the opposite side. Unfortunately it is much further for the vessel than the 400 meters the sun lovers have to walk. After a few days R&R I set off for the Spanish mainland on an all nighter sail. The wind was behind me and Malua fell into a gentle rhythm as I sailed down wind with the genoa winged out with the spinnaker pole. The main was full and drawing well.
As is always the case in these situations the wind and swell increased as the sun set. I pulled one reef in the main and put a few turns in the genoa as the wind increased to over 20 knots. At about midnight the wind again increased with a true wind almost 35 knots. It was time for the second reef but I had to turn side on to the waves to get the sail free of wind. That was when all hell broke loose down below. The many days of quiet cruising came to a sudden and loud bang as all unsecured items in the cabin came flying off shelves and bunks and landed on the floor. I pulled the reef in and set the bow down wind for a smoother ride but by this time the swell had increased and we where surfing down the short waves, still going like a train.
Cartagena Bay was in sight as it became light and I was able to duck behind a large headland out of the wind to drop the sails and get Malua ship shape again. The wind was now blowing right out of the bay and I motored slowly into the large harbour and headed for the marina. There was no one to be seen at 7:30am so I chose an easy berth to get into a Malua was soon secure alongside.
I took off the wet weather gear, had a shower and settled down to a good breakfast, pleased to have completed another crossing of more than 150 nm without incident.
Cartagena is a lovely town which a number of cruisers have over wintered in so there is no need to describe it. While I was there a few yachts were preparing for the winter. The majority to be left while the owners flew home. I stayed a few days then set off south along the coast. Not a very anchor friendly place with marinas widely spaced.
Nowhere to go but Madeira
2012-10-01
After travelling westwards along the Spanish and Portuguese coast it was now time for Malua to turn the corner at the south western cape of Portugal and head north to Lisbon and the planned rendezvous with our friends Sundancer. The wind Gods had other plans with a persistent strong northerly blowing down the coast. Our options where to wait for better winds, return along the coast we had just traversed or sail down wind to Madeira.
The last option was chosen as a shake down cruise for Pete who had never spent a few days far from land. We prepared Malua for the passage however the wind increased and the sea state deteriorated with a nasty chop on top of a long swell on the quarter. Not a pleasant passage. The watch system was three hours on and three hours off during darkness and no watches during daylight.
After three days Pete was very sleep deprived having only sleep a few hours. He started to make stupid mistakes. Going forward at night unattached with out a PFD to reattach a block without releasing the sheet. I woke with the noise and called Pete. No response, rushed out into the cockpit to find it empty. I swung the torch towards the foredeck and there was Pete on his knees, sheet between his legs, sail flapping just ready to be lifted over board. He did not see what was wrong!
After four nights and five days we were both releaved to come alongside the marina dock and tie up. But there the same story as before – poor seamanship but that is a story which will eventually be told but not here.
Madeira
2012-10-05
The Madeira group of island is about 450 nm from mainland Portugal and out in the Atlantic off the coast of Morocco. Some say it is the garden of Eden. There are two main inhabited island – Porto Santo and Madeira lying 30 nm south.
Malua pulled into the large American built harbour at Porto Santo and went alongside amongst many other cruising yachts mainly going to the Canaries.
I took a local bus tour of the island visiting the ex USA airbase and all weather runway plus the radio masts and the northern coast. An interesting trip well worth the 3 euro bus fare.
After a few days it was time to head south to the main island of Madeira. We stopped at the new marina Quinta do Lorde which is just west of a Baia du Abra which we had hoped to anchor in but is untenable in anything but a northern wind.
The Marina Quinta do Lorde is a new development based around the marina. The houses, apartments and rooms are not yet finished but they expect to open the huge complex in December. Only 20% of the units are sold but at a starting price of 420,000 euro I am not surprised. The quality is good, the design great as is the location but at this stage there is no sole in the place.
The marina is a good walk to the small town but close by a wonderful nature reserve extending north west to the cape we had rounded on the way in. A four hour walk to the summit of the island and to the tip of the cape is well worth the effort however if you are scared of heights and walking on a narrow path between a steep drop off – get someone to hold your hand although the s/s rail is secure and well tested.
We took a local bus to Funchal to try and source a few parts for the boat and spent a fruitless day walking the streets and backstreet to find a supplier. A two hour bus tour of the island gave me a sense of the town which has been a tourest destination for many many years. There are many large resort style hotel and apartment complexes crowed around the Funchal harbour.
Madeira Levada or water canals
2012-10-11
On Sunday we set off on the local bus for Machica which is down the coast from Quinta de Lorde Marine to find a levada – water canal. I had first come across them in Portuguese Timor in the ‘70 when we were leaving Australia. (The water still does not run up hill even today – note to friend). We boarded a local bus which took us up into the hills behind the town. The driver dropped us off at a point that the road crossed the levada. These are water canals which start high up in the valleys and channel the water along the contour towards the sea. Because they follow the contour they go into the smaller gullies and valleys, usually above the house line and below the tree line. The trees generally give you shade as you walk along the path next to the canal which is only half a meter wide and about a meter deep. While we where walking the levada was only half full. Where is meets a river they have built a bridge for the rive which now flows over the canal with only a small inlet to add water to the canal. There are openings closed with a stainless steel gate that can be raised to allow the water to escape the canal and flow down onto the fields below. At many points the land owners had placed garden hose in the canal and syphoned water out of it to water their vegetable patch.
Our walk was 15 kn along the levada all at about the same level. We stopped at a convenient bar for a refreshing drink just ahead of a 20 strong party of German trampers along with all the correct gear including walking sticks. We left them behind drinking their coffee and discussing the merits of the walk.
After a steep walk down the last part of the valley we stopped in at a restaurant to sample the local Portugese sardines -rather larger than I expected but very good taste. We stopped in at the supermarket to get some supplies then boarded the bus at Machico for the trip back to the marina.
The next day it was time to head north before the winds filled in on the nose. The journey is expected to take five days to cover the 560 nm to Morocco.
Passage to Morocco
2012-10-12
At this point I asked myself why we had decided to sail to Madeira because the round trip from Portugal, Madeira then Morocco (Rabat) is almost 1000nm. The main reason was it was a shakedown cruise to see how crew and Malua would work on an ocean passage. As always the crew broke down first before the vessel.
We set off with the clear knowledge that there would be little wind and if it came it would be on the nose. We set off on a course that would put us in a good angle to Rabat if it came up. After four nights, flat calm seas and no wind we approached Rabat river mouth as the sun rose on the fifth day we where off the bar but the pilot would only lead us in at the high water mark around noon so we stood off in the small swell.
The passage was easy in relative terms because we had no wind or swell – just a flat sea – so flat you could see the stars in the water.
Again sleep deprivation played its part as Pete tried to figure out the different lights from the starts. At one point I was called to see a red and green light not more than a mile away as a large freighter bore down on us. Some quick evasive action ensured we passed ahead but at that point I realised even with the three on board we would only be able to have a two watch system – 3 on 3 off and Pete and Peirs standing together.
We were led up the river past the old fort at the entrance and into a new marina and development. The usual bureaucratic wait and formalities had to be endured before we tied up to the dock at Marina Bouregreg. It is on the north side of the river from Rabat in the town of Sale. A great place to purchase fruit and veg especially olives and dried fruit. A supermarket under the train station supplied us with the essentials plus very good turkey breasts which we made into pre- prepared meals for the passage.
Marrakech
2012-10-20
A great part of long term cruising is the ability to get off ones boat and travel inland. The disadvantage is that if you spend a night in a hotel you are in fact paying double – once for your boat and once for yourself. In Morocco the cost of marinas is quite inexpensive and the cost of reasonable hotels about the same so land travel doesn't break the bank.
Malua arrived in Morocco at the port of Rabat and I had a full itinerary of where I would like to visit after spending some time here in the mid '70. The place has not changed in more than 40 years – in fact more than centuries. Malua teamed up with Sundancer and we arranged aa tour from Marrakech over the high Atlas Mountains into the desert then a long way back to Marrakech, two nights and three long days.
We took the train from Rabat to Marrakech – choosing first class and a compartment to our selves for most of the way. On arrival we were accosted by the taxi drivers all wanting to take us to their favourite hotel. After a while when the crowed had dispersed we sought out a fellow and negotiated a price. We piled in and I directed with the use of my smart phone to the large square in the Medina then down the few lanes right to the door of our chosen Riad. It was a lovely house with a court yard onto which the rooms faced. Unfortunately my room had a window onto the alley next to the Riad. It was quite noise during the day but went quit towards midnight only to come alive when the street sweepers and garbage collectors started soon after dawn.
On the evening of our first night I went out into souks adjacent to the square Diemaa el Fna to look around then returned later to the many eating places or Djemaa offering a range of foods. I has sampled some spicy sausages earlier in the evening from one place but luckily for our group there were no seats available so we chose another. We had kebabs and Helen had her usual tagine of chicken, lemon and olives. It was a great meal.
That night I woke with a very bad case of jippo belly. It lasted the whole night and in the morning I was totally cleaned out. No one in our party suffered any ill effect so it must have been the spicy sausage I had eaten. By noon I was reduced to flat coke only to bring that up in front of everybody when they visited me in the room. By nightfall I was well again just in time to move on.
Our Sahara Services tour operator collected us at the Riad and we set off in a landcruiser, after paying the boss-man in euros and dirhams. An interesting transaction in the middle of the busy square.
We headed south along the main road N9 towards Ouarzazate which is after the twisty, windy pass through the Atlas Mountains. I remember these well from Denny and I previous visit in our VW combi. We had travelled up into the mountains all day to be faced with on where to stay so we pulled off the main road and took a side road up into the mountains. Stopping at the end of the single track. We closed the curtains, made some supper and went to sleep. The following morning I opened the door to find that it had snowed and we where completely snowed in. The track down the mountain was not visible. By afternoon the sun had melted the snow sufficiently for us to see the track and we carefully navigated our way back to the main tarred road.
We were not alone on this occasion as we followed other land cruisers south into the desert. We stopped at a purpose built Sahara Services hotel near the town of Mohammedia. A great dinner – which by this time I was staving and a good nights sleep capped off a great day.
The next morning I was up early to walk in the desert and hopefully get some pictures but no-one was up that early so returned to the hotel for breakfast and to be kitted up for a ride on a camel in the Sahara. Ian and Helen had ridden camels while in Sudan and Egypt so they where less enthusiastic. After and hour and a half easy stroll through a flat flood plain we dismounted anticipating to be sour for the rest of the day but that was not to be. The landcruiser met us and we were off, first through a stony desert then a sand desert with moderately high sand dunes. We arrived well after noon at a prepared camp-site with sleeping tents with en suite and a larger dining tent. The food for lunch and dinner was good, more than adequate but rather ordinary.
First light saw the full party up with cameras ready for a shot of the sun over the sand dunes but the low cloud spoilt that opportunity. We all climbed into the cruiser, taking turn in the front and middle seat as the driver chose the best route either between the boulders or over the loose sand. It was a long drive towards Marrakech not helped by the many large lorries grinding their way up and round the sharp curves of the Atlas mountains in the heavy rain and dark. We were all relieved to arrive back at Marrakech. We then had to find our way to the new Riad down the unmarked lanes of the souks.
It was at this point Pete spat the dummy and stomped off to his own room. The full rush of blood to the head would come when we arrived back at Malua when he did a runner not settling his outstanding kitty account for the boat. The bottom line was I paid him about $20 per day to sail with me from Spain to Portugal, Madeira and Morocco. The result however is that Malua is now a safer boat without him because his seamanship was dangerous and erratic.
Not enough time
2012-10-23
I have been so busy doing land travel and sailing that I have not had sufficient time to update this blog BUT I have been updating the new satellite phone blog which you can reach here http://blog.mailasail.com/harryws20
Frenetic Fes
2012-10-23
Piers arrived as the new crew for the Atlantic crossing and we immediately left for the desert! More land travel to see the country but this time we took the train, second class to Fes. Only three hours away. We arrived and on this occasion walked away from the station to find a petit Taxi to take us to the Kasbah where we had booked a riad. It turned out more difficult that it first appeared so we called the hotel owner who told us to go to the blue gate and wait to be shown the way to the hotel.
Just as we stepped out of the taxi the fellow came up to us and greeted me by name and we were off to the hotel which was a converted house. Beautifully decorated but being renovated. We were the only guests. Our host lived in the two rooms on the ground floor. As is the custom we were given mint tea on arrival and shown the room and roof garden.
After a quick rest we ventured out into the souks. Much narrow lanes than Marrakech, with more side alleys and far fewer tourists. The Kasbah is within the walls of the city which is built on a hill. The blue gate at the highest point. If you get lost walk down hill, find a gate and take a petit taxi back up to the blue gate. Fortunately Piers and I have a good sense of direction and over the two days we spent following the twits and turns we never lost our bearings.
The first afternoon I set about finding a sister carpet to the one I purchased in Marrakech only smaller. I found a carpet shop and a similar Berber colour and pattern. The seller who spoke good English soon dropped his price to half the asking price even before I put in a bid. I was not convinced that the two colours would be the same so I promised to return the next day with a picture of my first carpet.
We continues in search of a set of tiles with Arab calligraphy on them. Nicola had purchased a set when she was last in Morocco. After many approaches to “come to my store I have such tiles” we were finally led up a narrow staircase, four floor to a large room full of pots and tiles. They were not quite what I wanted but were very nice so the long process of haggling started. After the normal back and forth I established a fair price for two sets of tiles and paid in euro – the preferred currency.
The next day Piers and I packed up and headed off in search of the famous tanneries of Fes, passing on route the carpet store. The owner saw us and called us back into shop to conclude the deal. I showed him a picture of the large rug and the bartering started. The final price was more than fair – about 1/3 of the larger rug. I now have a fully carpeted saloon floor, of wool which can be washed it it gets wet. I will roll them up when on passage.
We eventually found the tanneries with the help of a self appointed guide. We were able to look down on the tanning and dye pits – thankfully away from the smell. We looked in at a few shops which were clearly orientated towards rich tourist. We followed our guide back to his shop where he had set up a loom to spin the fabric Rayon (or “pure silk”) made from the local cactus leaves.
By this stage we had both had enough of the souks, bartering and the frenetic pace of Fes so we returned to the train station and caught the next train back to Sale/Rabat.
Leaving Rabat
2012-10-29
The preparation to leave Rabat for the passage to the Canaries was us usual planned and in this case a joint effort. We unpacked all the stores, made a list then set off to the local hyper market to clear the shelves. Piers negotiated a good rate in a grand taxi which we required for Ian and Helen came with us and we were going to cross the bridge into the city of Rabat. The supermarket turned out to be just like the best in Europe but with no booze. We filled a large trolly and ticked off all the items on the list. The credit card took a bash with the final tally 14500 dirhams. We then had to find a taxi to return to the marina. Being on the eve of the festival of Eid there were nil available however Piers convinced a petit taxi to take his sign off and take four of us across the bridge into the marina area. he required payment 80 dh before we left just in case he was stopped by the police. The walk onto the boat was weighed down with large bags full of provisions. Now to store then in boxes under the sink cupboard.
The festival of the Eid was at its hight when we decided to leave Morocco but being the very serious religious festival nothing, and I mean nothing, was open or moved in the streets of Sale or Rabat. It is a three day two night close down.
When we asked the marina if we could leave, they very politely told that the entrance bar was too rough so the pilot would not take us out but tomorrow would be OK.
I took Malua over to the fuel dock to put fuel in. 344 litre but they would not take payment until the following day. I also checked out and tried to pay for the stay Euro 296 and again they would not take payment till the next day.
Sunday dawned with rain again and we checked out, settled our accounts and proceeded to the Customs dock. The officials fill all the forms, asked about the crew change and spent some time checking the ins and outs of the new and old crew. Then after much discussion and many phone calls we got the required blue form to leave subject to the drug dog sniffing the boat. A black Labrador arrived with a number of officials. While they shook hands with everybody the dog proceeded to roll in a very large pile of seagull droppings covering his head and side with white shit. The officials then climbed aboard and the dog jumped all over everything covering it with white. The smell was overpowering but I kept a straight face. I think it is their party trick for departing boats. Finally we were handed a form and informed we could leave.
We followed Sundancer and the pilot out the river mouth along with Charm Offensive taking up the rear.
It was then, set a course south into a very slight wind to see how far we could get. At sunset Mohammedia was off the port bow and we turned in expecting the wind to come up to 25 knots on the nose the following day.
We are now Med moored to the end of a pontoon with heavy lines set in expectation of the blow.
Mohammedia
2012-10-31
The festival of the Eid was at its hight when we decided to leave Morocco but being the very serious religious festival nothing, and I mean nothing, was open or moved in the streets of Sale or Rabat. It is a three day two night close down. The evening of the first night the richer families slaughter a sheep/ram. They give one third to their neighbours, one third to the poor and the rest they eat as a family. People return to their family and spend the time with them. If you live in a high rise and are unable to kill a sheep you can give money to an organisation who will distribute it to the poor. All the shops are shut and no transactions take place.
When we asked the marina if we could leave, they very politely said that the entrance bar was too rough so the pilot would not take us out but tomorrow would be OK.
I took Malua over to the fuel dock to put fuel in. 344 litre which cost Euro 283 but they would not take payment until the following day. I also checked out and tried to pay for the stay Euro 296 and again they would not take payment till the next day.
Piers and I set out to try a fill the camping Gaz. WE found nothing open. We were walking along the road and a fellow and his wife where loading empty gas canisters in to the boot of their car. We asked if they were going to get it filled and they said yes and we could come along. We drove for some time then reversed up o the front of a small “shop” the driver got out had a few words with the shop keeper them unloaded his containers. Initially they would not take mine but after the wife intervened they took my 11 dirhams and give me a battered but full camping gaz container. The only reason was the shopkeeper was a relative of the driver. Many thanks to the Moroccan generosity.
Sunday dawned with rain again and we checked out, settled our accounts and proceeded to the Customs dock. The officials fill all the forms, asked about the crew change and spent some time checking the ins and outs of the new and old crew. Then after much discussion and phone calls we got the required blue form to leave subject to the drug dog sniffing the boat. A black Labrador arrived with a number of officials. While they shook hands with everybody the dog proceeded to roll in a very large pile of seagull droppings covering his head and side with white shit. The officials then climbed aboard and the dog jumped all over everything covering it with white. The smell was overpowering but I kept a straight face. I think it is their party trick for departing boats. Finally we where handed a form and informed we could leave.
We followed Sundancer and the pilot out the river mouth along with Charm Offensive taking up the rear.
It was then set a course south into a very slight wind to see how far we could get. At sunset Mohammedia was off the port bow and we turned in expecting the wind to come up to 25 knots on the nose the following day. The same bureaucratic routine followed with multiple offical arriving on Malua filling in multiple forms with the same information. All very polity, speaking French. The marina is very small and we are now Med moored to the end of a pontoon with heavy lines set in expectation of the blow.