Original account
2010-02-04 — Fixing the Tiller Hand
2010-02-16 — Restocking the spares store
2010-02-24 — Raw water impeller
2010-03-15 — Annual Mooring Maintenance
2010-03-15 — Marine Rescue Helicopter Training
2010-03-31 — Preparing to upgrade engine battery power flow
2010-04-13 — Preparing for the next summer
2010-04-21 — Packed and ready to fly
2010-05-01 — Summer has started
2010-05-03 — Replumb the Fridge water
2010-05-04 — Extra Battery Bank
2010-05-05 — Corfu Castle
2010-05-11 — Dock Shoes
2010-05-16 — Changing weather Vathi Ithica
2010-05-23 — Meeting good friends
2010-05-23 — Finding your way home
2010-05-23 — The fleet is in port
2010-05-26 — Doing Time
2010-06-05 — Sawdust and Shavings
2010-06-08 — Strait of Messina
2010-06-09 — Amalfi Tourist Experience
2010-06-15 — Sardinia Crossing
2010-06-30 — Rock and Roll in Bonifacio
2010-06-30 — Corsican Wedding
2010-07-11 — Lights Camera Action
2010-07-15 — West coast of Corsica Cruising Delights
2010-07-20 — Blue water, White Sand, Hot Sun
2010-07-26 — Mediterranean Cruisers Net
2010-08-04 — Elba
2010-08-04 — Passagemaking
2010-08-04 — Cinque Terre
2010-08-09 — Potofino
2010-08-17 — Dark clouds, strong wind and rock n roll
2010-08-22 — High Rollers, Rolls and Roar of the engine
2010-09-01 — Big Towns, Big Names and Big Numbers
2010-09-15 — Toulon, French Navy and the Mistral
Fixing the Tiller Hand
2010-02-04
While preparing Malua to go back into the water at Marmaris in 2007 I was kindly given a used 45Kg Rocla anchor. I lifted it off the dock and walked towards Malua across a puddle of muddy water. I only got half across when my feet slipped from under me and I fell backwards. While going down I managed to throw the anchor to one side but I landed on my right elbow. It was very soar for about two months and I found I could not lift my arm above my shoulder for the rest of the season.
The following season I applied antifouling to the underside of Malua much to the stress of my right shoulder. During the season it got so lame I could not lift it up to the top of the wheel. On returning to the Australia I visited the Orthopaedic surgeon who immediate diagnosed a rotary cuff or long head of the bicep tear of the ligaments.
In my case he said it was fixable after establishing which was the exact ligament that causing the pain. After an ultra-scan and a MRI (you know lying in a small tunnel while a large magnet spinning around you) and many dollars later I was booked into the local hospital for a shoulder reconstruction.
The week before Christmas I checked in and went under at about noon. The number of checks to confirm that it was in fact my right shoulder that they were operating on (surgeon draws large arrow on shoulder with permanent marker) was reassuring.
I came round about 300pm feeling very thirsty but no pain. That was to come later. After a reasonable night sleep I was given a hearty breakfast which I enjoyed but did not keep down for more than half a hour – not as bad a seasickness but the same effect. I was instructed to keep my arm in a sling for six weeks. Well can you imagine me doing that. Impossible. I must say though that I did not use the arm effectively for almost three weeks and the muscles have wasted. The pain is still here six weeks after the operation.
I am now out of the sling, doing exercises four times a day. At the moment I am trying to get the range of movement back but soon it will be building up the muscle and the strength. No more anti fouling this year.
While I was building Malua I had a medical set back and while I was in hospital all I could think about was how large the power winches would have to be to get me back on the boat. I installed the winched but recovered not to have to use them. Well this season I will have to use them!
Restocking the spares store
2010-02-16
Cruising has been said to be the performance of maintenance in exotic places or word to that effect. Having fitted out Malua from a bare hull in 2003 I was not prepared to do any more maintenance work except on a Sunday – my day of rest from sailing through the Pacific. Luckily very little needed attention so I could relax and enjoy the South Pacific. Malua is now in the Mediterranean and time has moved on. The marine environment is starting to take its toll. Most of the electrical seawater pumps have had to be replaced while the fridge sea water pump is leaking and is corroded. The rubber valves (duckbills) in the Sealand vacuum toilet have lost their flexibility and only just close while the stitching on the canvas of the bimini is starting to come apart.
So while back in Australia I have again activated my trade accounts and stated to restock the spares store. The items required are
. Repair Simrad autopilot
. Replace wind instrument at mast head
. Seawater deckwash pump
. Seawater internal pump
. Isotherm fridge control unit
. Isotherm seawater pump
. Yanmar raw water impeller
. Yamaha 8 HP water impeller
. HF radio external antenna cable
. YKK zipper and sliders
. New Australian flag
. Muir anchor counter magnet unit
The first item Simrad has given me the most problems because the Navico distributor would not take my unit in for service because it was 8 years old. The resolution to that issue is a story in itself… for another day.
Raw water impeller
2010-02-24
While cruising one's senses are heightened and sight, sound and sight are improved from the time one was within the rat race. When did you get up in the night if a door banged closed or the wind rose. The same can be said about sound. I believe one becomes very aware of the sound of your yacht at anchor, sailing and under way. Malua has a 50 hp diesel engine which has performed very well in the Mediterranean. I designed the exhaust system to handle sailing in flat and rough water.
When we were motoring towards Previsa I noticed a change in the tone of the exhaust and looked over the side to find the amount of water coming out of the outlet had reduced substantially.
After anchoring I investigated and found the raw water impeller blades had disintegrated. Having a replacement in the store I was able to install a new impeller immediately. I now have to get a new impeller from the local supplier.
Some people believe the impeller should be replaced annually. I think this is good but unnecessary. It depends on where you sail. While sailing in Venice there was a lot of sand and mud. This caused the impeller to wear faster. One should have a grill on the through hull and a filter soon after. These will catch larger items but not sand and mud.
How do you know when the impeller has gone?
Listen and watch the raw water exhaust outlet. If you don't notice the raw water the temperature gauge should tell you or a sound alarm will (if you have one).
Annual Mooring Maintenance
2010-03-15
It time for the annual mooring maintenance not that last year much maintenance was undertaken because the previous year I had replaced the shackles and the mooring line to the buoy. A year ago the only thing that was needed was to replace the stainless steel mouse wire through the nuts of the shackle.
Again this year Stephen took me out in his boat Tegwen towing his tinny from which I could access the mooring. This year the water was much warmer at 23.5 C however I decided to wear a bottom half of a wet suit before donning the scuba and slowly sinking down into the murky waters of the low tide. To my horror as a reached the end of the mooring line I discovered the thimble was missing and two of the three strands in the eye splice had worn through. The whole mooring was hanging by 10 thin strands of the line. I proceeded down the chain to the shackle at the concrete block to find this to be buried in sand. I tried to undo the nut on the shackle with two large shifting spanners but was not able to get any movement from it. The next time that is removed will be with a grinder or oxi torch.
I attempted to undo the top nut from the bolt through the swivel shackle. That was not going to budge either. Not even when I was standing in the tinny and using the full force of the two large spanners. Unfortunately the swivel end has seen some corrosion and that will have to be replaced in a year or so.
Having attached another mooring line to the top chain Stephen and I winched the line up from the bottom just to the surface to work on the swivel. I also had to clear the weed from the line. Not difficult but great care has to be taken not to cut your hands.
Now to undo the nut from the bolt on the swivel. Not even with a hard surface to work from would the nut budge. Another grinder job.
I cut the old mooring line from the swivel and attached the new line below the swivel because the shackle was not large enough. That will do for a few months but will have to be seen to if used.
Marine Rescue Helicopter Training
2010-03-15
The Southcare helicopter requires of their paramedics undergo highwire training from the water and vessel to the helicopter. Batemans Bay Marine Rescue willingly provided a platform for this training. When I have been involved in the past it has convinced me that I do not want to be in a position to be plucked from the sea by a thin wire from a helicopter.
We are required to steam 20 degrees off the wind at about 8 to 12 knots so the helicopter can hover above us on our port side. If anything goes wrong the helicopter will swing over to the port side to ditch.
The parametric have to prepare themselves in our vessel then as the wire is lowered they connect and indicate that they are ready to be lifted. If all goes well they rise up from our deck BUT if there is a swell then we go up and down and the helicopter hovers above. The wire gets tight and the winch man has to let some go then when everyone is ready up they go.
The noise is ear splitting and the spray too great to see without goggles. The whole process is a good exercise and a warning not to get into a situation that you will need the high wire.
To watch the exercise and my trip down the coast click on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJ1-bwKfrt8
Preparing to upgrade engine battery power flow
2010-03-31
Sail and the wind is the best source of power on a boat but second to that electrical power is critical not only to run the lights and chart plotters but to start the engine. In 2006 I installed a new battery bank to assist the house bank. It involved running a new set of battery wire from the new bank to the switch board and then rewiring the main switch panel.
Malua always seemed to lean over to Starboard because the main battery bank of six 6 volt 200Ah are located under the quarter berth on the starboard side. The choice for the new battery bank was easy – it had to be on the port side. The only reasonable place was under the aft cabin bunk so that is where it went. I could only fit four 6 volt Sonnenschein SB6 200 amp-hour batteries into the space. No matter this bank drives the electronics and does not need as many amp-hour as the primary bank.
In the process I took the starting battery out of the circuit but left the cables running to the main switch board. I estimated that the combined power of the 10 batteries would be sufficient to start the 50Hp Yanmar with ease. In fact it is more than I require but on starting the engine the power draw leads to a drop in voltage to the chartplotter and it does not like it especially if the battery voltage is low.
The solution is to reintegrate the starting battery into the main switch board unfortunately the starting battery is not the same as the house batteries and therefore they have a different charging regime. I cant just add the starting to one bank. The starter will be connected directly to the starting bank and then add a switch to the cable from the generator cable to the main house bank and the starting bank. To start the switch will be on starter, to charge switched to both or main bank.
Well that is the plan, all I have to do now is cable in the new switch and test it when Malua is back in the water.
Preparing for the next summer
2010-04-13
Today I spent preparing to leave the southern summer to fly north for their summer.
I have collected most of the parts for Malua and have confirmed the flight details, booked the bus to Sydney Airport and confirmed the booking at the hotel in Athens. Lets hope this time the hotel has the correct room. Last time we stayed there was a mixup and Denny and I had to share a single bet for the first night. Not something we have done for a long time.
I then attempted to phone the bus service to book a seat on the bus from Athens to Preveza or in fact Aktio which is where Malua has wintered. A detail search of the web turned up a few phone numbers but all turned out incorrect. Then a search of the blogs and news groups and a gem was uncovered. The correct number. A very polite greek lady answered the phone and took my booking for Sunday at noon. We will arrive in the dark but that is the least of our concerns.
Packed and ready to fly
2010-04-21
Are the birds flying north for the summer or have they put their flight on hold because of the ash spread all over Europe? I am sure they are flying north but the big birds are not flying. Qantas is still grounded and will not take off for a few days but Emirates has been flying right through the crisis. Luckely this year for the first time we have not flown through London but chose to fly direct to Athens. This airport has been open. If everything goes according to plan Iain and I take off from Sydney this evening at 1845 for Dubai and then on to Athens.
Everything is packed. My hold luggage is 25kg while Iain who has my survival suit in his bag is just less. As usual my cabin bag is well over weight but I will transfer that weight to my pockets and the bag will come in under the 7kg.
My eighth summer in a row is about to begin and for once it is not raining in Canberra on departure day.
Summer has started
2010-05-01
Iain and I arrived in Athens after an easy flight with Emirates from Sydney, Bangkok, Dubai and finally into Athens. Having once used the Greek Metro it seems second nature and checking into the same hotel in the Plaka made all the difference. Unfortunately the winter timetable applied at the Acropolis so everybody had to be out of the site by 14:30. One can see why the Greek economy is in such need of money but the connection between work and income has not been made so while people were asking to get in to the gates the guards were determined to knock-off at the designated 15:00.
The Acropolis Museum made up for the actual site and the National Museum has some lovely pieces which Iain enjoyed. Saturday saw us arrive at the bus station early to get a seat on a quarter full bus to Preveza. Six hours but an easy run.
On arrival at Preveza Marina the power was switched on and a ladder was ready for us to climb aboard. We did not have much time before the sun set but we did wash the boat down. Inside everything was spick and span with not a drop or water and no visible mould or damage. The cover for the cockpit really does work.
The next day Iain washed and polished the top sides. I must say with my saw arm I would not have been able to reach up to do that task. Malua looks great. The next day was below the waterline. Dressed up in overalls and a well fitting mask Iain sanded the antifouling. Not a hard job but dirty and quite tiring on the arms. We washed the residue off and set about applying the Micron Extra antifouling I purchased in Venice the previous years. As usual it went on well but we seemed to use a little more than previously 3.5 l for the underside. I then set about sanding the Autoprop furling propeller to get it as smooth as possible. After a wash and greasing the bearing it was time to apply the Australian lanolin to the blades. I also applied heat from the heat gun to get a nice smooth finish. This form of protection has been very good. Much better than long life antifouling. Last year we got not a single barnacles on a blade. After three days of intensive work we were both ready for an early night.
Launch day. Only the sails to bend on and we are ready to go in the water. I walked to the office to settle the final account to find that they owed me some money. What a surprise! We had agreed to launch at 12:0 noon. Having experienced Marmaris launch fiasco I was ready to settle down for an afternoons wait when there was a knock on the hull, "Are you ready?" Yes it is exactly noon. With great efficiency the low loader was manoeuvred into place, the struts removed and we were moving towards the water. The travel lift was then positioned over Malua and the belts tightens and we were moving towards the launch dock. Malua was gently lowered into the water and we were free all in less than a hour. What joy and lack of stress. If only Marmaris could learn from this. The difference is that here they launch six boats a day while in Turkey they launch 20 boats before lunch.
Start the engine, turn on the instruments and the summer has started. What joy.
We came alongside at Preveza town and set about adding to the provisions. The major outstanding is to have the fridge gassed. I have contacted the fellow who said he would drop round tomorrow with the 134a gas and fill the fridge workings. It sounds easy so we will have to wait and see.
Replumb the Fridge water
2010-05-03
Having launched Malua in Preveza and sailing north to visit some of the Greek island it is now time to look at the Todo list and cross a few of the tasks off.
All the task to get the boat ready for the water have been completed….antifoul, polish topsides, rerig the lines and halyards, bend on the sails, put the bimini canvas back on. The fridge was regassed but I need to replace the water pump used to cool the compressor. I purchased the closest replacement from Defender in America during their presummer sale and had it Fedexed to Greece. Getting that through customs is another story which will have to wait. On investigation I found that while it would fit it was not in the optinum position being too far from the sea water inlet. I had to locate it in the water section of Malua. That is under the port settee seat along with the other pumps and pipes. Not a hard job but it ment that I had to disconnect a number of other pipes and place the pump close to the water inlet plus add a valve to shut off the flow if that is required.
Every thing went smoothly. It always helps to have a store cupboard full of fittings, clamps and short pieces of hose. Within an hour the new pump was attached to the bulkhead, connected to the seawater inlet filter and the fridge with the outlet passing through an existing above water through hull. Well all that is required now is to turn on the fridge and wait for it to cool. Cold beer will soon be in our hands.
Extra Battery Bank
2010-05-04
You can never have too many amps on a boat. With today's gadgets and instruments they seem to eat up amps right before your eyes. Three years ago I install a second bank of batteries. That was in addition the the main house bank of 600 amp hours. The second one was of the same type but only four 6 volt 200ah which gave me an additional 400 amp hours. Unfortunately in installing this bank I decided to remove the engine start battery believing that the I had enough amps and the charging regime of a starter battery was different from the two house deep cycle gel batteries. One seasons experience I found that after a few days the two banks had dropped on voltage and it was not save to rely on them to start the engine. It always started but the draw of the starter was just too great.
While in Oz I purchased a new 1,2 both battery switch, went to my store a took off a role of battery wire. It is heavy being pure copper. I thought I would have to make it into a belt to wear on the plane to keep the hold luggage within limits but Emirates gives you 30Kg and this time I was just under the limit.
I set about analyzing the current situation. I thought I knew the circuits and had then drawn in my electrical diagram but like everything on a boat things change and one forgets what changes you make.
The next challenge is to draw the schematic of what the circuits should be and then to see if you can implement it within the confines of the switch box. Again having a store of wire, crimps and clampers on board helps to make the job easy. I had luckely left the engine battery wire on the board so connecting the new switch was only a question of running the new wires to the right places and getting the connections right. After a few minutes the dead was done and the the time was right to throw the switch.
Engine started first go and went into charge mode for the engine battery bank. Great. Move the switch from 1 to both and the second house bank receives a charge. You can now use the windlass and the alternator will take the load. Then when that is completed either leave the switch to both on move to 2 to dedicate the current to the second bank. I f the first bank need charging just change the main battery switches to both and the both get the amps. Hopefully giving me more amps than I will need.
Corfu Castle
2010-05-05
Malua is anchored in the shadow of the "New" castle at Corfu. We sailed north from Preveza, to Paxos stayed a night at Galios and then on to Lakki. Met two OZ boats of which one was from Croatia. After a reasonable dinner a shore we left the next day to motor north to Corfu. Did a trip round the point to look at the Venitian houses in the old part of town then back to the bay south of the castle.
The water is so clear we could see the sand patches so we dropped the anchor in one and went astern letting out 40m of chain. We were last here in September 2009 when we had to leave early one morning because the wind had come up with the sun and the slop was just so uncomfortable. At the moment ther is no wind and the sea is as flat as a mirror.
Iain and I visited the market this morning to replenish the stores. I left him in town to walk around and connect with the internet. I rewired the refrigerator so both compressors would run then started the generator to put some amps into the tree battery banks. Looks good.
I have also got my Vodafone 3G USB modem working so connecting to the net will be a breeze if not expensive.
Dock Shoes
2010-05-11
I try to go for a walk every evening while cruising in the Mediterranean. If one doesn’t you either get cabin fever or you get fat. Walking on the Greek island is more difficult than in say Turkey or even Italy because of the rocks and stones. The goats have eaten most of the vegetation. The stones have hard edges, the paths are strewn with them set to cut anything that stand on them. In my case to cut my dock shoes.
Yesterday I set off up a path on the mountain side of the island of Lefkas. On previous occasion we had anchored in Tranquil bay in the shadow of the mountain I had seen large lorries and cars appear to disappear into the mountain side. The road like most modern Greek road had been cut out of the mountain coming from the south to the town of Nadris. At one point the road disappeared but the rock cutting continued. I followed the cars as they drove down the road then disappeared never to be seen again. I speculated that the road entered a tunnel which came out the other side of the mountain close to the town’s centre.
I now had the chance to solve the puzzle of the vanishing vehicles. Donning my trusty dock shoes I set off up the path towards the road. It started to climb at quite a steep angle as I cane close to the disappearing road. Just one more turn and all would be revealed. What an anti climax. All the road did was take a sharp turn and run back on itself but at a lower level. It was screened by the bushes and trees. What appeared to be the tunnel entrance was in fact a hair pin bend. However a track led off from the apex of the bend and followed the contour of the mountain. I set off down this track which became narrower and narrower and more stone with every step. After about a kilometre it had degenerated into a goat trail clinging to the side of the mountain high above the bay. Soon even the goat trail petered out and I was faced with the decision of turning back or continuing hoping it would lead to some track down the mountain. Denny can attest that in fact there is no decision in these situations. It is always, there must be a way down if we continue.
At this point I started to realise why the road had taken the hairpin bend. The mountain was so steep that even the goats had given up making a track. What to do? Continue of course but my dock shoes where starting to feel the effects of the rocks and jagged stones. They were loosing their grip, first the left foot then the right. Was it my arm that contributed to my loss of balance or was it that I was out of practice.
After much effort on my hands and backside I managed to inch my way down the mountainside, the final stages over sheer rock face. I surprised an old lady tending her back garden as I appeared out of the brush at the base of the cliff face.
Once back on level ground I sat down to take the stones out of my shoes. I noticed why I had lost traction on the mountain side, my dock shoes had worn through. There was a large hole in the soles of my favourite walking shoes. Well it will be a new pair of shoes before I again set off up a Greek mountain track but maybe the next time in a pair of Australian elastic sided boots.
Changing weather Vathi Ithica
2010-05-16
I went for a walk last night up the mountain to the village overlooking the harbour town of Vathi. It was quite a trek up the valley. I gave up before I reached the top but I could see far into the distance. There in the east there where black clouds. It was overcast at the time as you can see from the photo. I returned to the village completely tired and decided to have a meal at a restaurant owned by a Greek Australian who had run a fish and chip shop at Manly wharf. His grilled lamb looked good so a ordered a portion. It was outstanding.
After the meal the restaurants started to packup their outside tables. I asked why? Going to rain, yes rain hard. I finished up and returned to Malua just in time to catch the first drops of a wind and rain storm. The wind rose and turned the placid bay into a windswept mess. Luckely there were only a few vessels anchored in the bay so I could sleep with easy.
Today I checked the weather forcast and it showed that the wind would turn from the east to a westerly going as high as 25 knots. I just had time to way anchor and head north to the seclusion of Vlikho bay. After washing off the anchor prudence suggested that I just go stern to along the whalf which I did between two British boats. After lunch the wind rose to well over 25 knots from the beam. First a charter boat's anchor pulled away and they had to run the motor to stay off the jetty while one of the crew went off to find the skipper. When he arrived they took off unfortunatly pulling the anchor chain out of the next vessel along. A large British yacht. He asked for my help so I jumped on board as we steamed off the jetty pulling up the anchor. Just made it. A Kiwi in a RIB came alongside to say the Harbour Police wanted all yachts to move out of the anchor area because the ferry was comming in and they were not confident thay they could hold the vessels course in the high wind. I returned with him to Malua.
Not wanting to stay beam on to the wind I dropped the lines headed out hauling the anchor from the wheel position. A less than optimal situation. I got away without disturbing the boats alongside. I headed over to the secluded part of the bay and tied up alongside the whalf. Within an hour all the other boats had moved and sought shelter in this area.
Sleep this evening but the forecast does not look good for tomorrow.
Meeting good friends
2010-05-23
Cruising is all about sailing to new and exciting places, the culture you find there and then the most important the people you meet. Talking to the locals is not always satisfying because of your lack of language skills although sometimes in Greece you can be surprised when a person replies to you question in an Australian accent. They have invariably spent their working life somewhere in Oz and have now returned to retire on their Oz pension. They always remember their time with pride and affection.
It is not these people that make a lasting impression on one sailing but the other cruisers who follow the same lifestyle as you. These people turn from “sharing the same anchorage” to real friends. One such couple are Richard and Charlie from Charlie Girl. We have crossed wakes for four years in a row and on each occasion Denny and I have really enjoyed our time together.
The first occasion was at Pylos when they came into the small harbour and I asked if I could take their lines. “thanks but we are quite familiar with this location”. From that started a great friendship. The following year the Cyclades and then the Ionian. This year it is again the Ionian. Richard and Charlie have sampled most of the restaurant in the area that they cruise so a recommendation of where to eat the evening that we meet is a given. On all occasions the owner recognises them, the service is great, the food good and the extras a very nice touch. As usual we stopped for a drink and then headed off for a very pleasant meal at the Rose Garden at Little Vathi on Meganisi. Over dinner I said cooked a mean curry and offered then the opportunity to sample one the next evening.
Fortunately I had all the ingredients and a little help from Herbie and his spices. The meal turned out a great success so next year I expect Richard to recommend the curry house on Malua.
Finding your way home
2010-05-23
In your home town getting lost on your way home can only be attributed to taking the wrong turn or having just a little too much to drink. When sailing not finding your way back to your boat can have dire consequences. In my case I was a sober a judge, knew the right turning but just could’nt get to the right bay. I might say I was walking on in the RIB.
I had anchored Malua in one of the many bay of Abelake on the NW side of Meganisi. In the late afternoon I set off for an evening walk having walked in this area the previous year. That was both an advantage and a disadvantage. I knew my way around but also recognised the road and the twists and turn over the hills. I climbed up from the beach through a fairly rough bit of land with overhanging trees and bushes. Noting as I reached the road that a previous walker had stepped in a mud puddle and a few meters up the road there was a pile of stones. Great pointers for my return.
I walked for about an hour and reached Little Vathi to find Charlie Girl stern too the quay. I was invited onboard for a drink which then turned into a delicious meal. The weather had turned to rain but looked as if it would pass before it got dark. Excusing myself I left about half-an-hour before it got dark – about the time it would take me to walk back to the bay in which Malua was anchored. Charlies parting words were “we have a sleeping bag you can stay on board”.
I set off at a pace up the mountain along the road towards the bay just as the rain started to fall. I remembered the road was it from this year or last. No problem just follow the road to the pile of stones and the mud puddle. The rain was no falling and the night had closed in. I could just see but finding the pile of stone was a problem and the mud puddle had of course turned into a pool. No sweat I could see the anchor lights of the boat in the bay below so I head down the side of the hill through an olive grove. About 100 m from the shoreline the bush closed in but I was able to pick my way through the bush in now the darkness. Success I reached the beach. The wrong beach and wrong bay.
OK I recognised the dirt track leading from the bay knowing it would circle the headland and come out on top of the hill above Little Vathi. All I would have to do was return and start again. After about 40 minutes walk I was back at the start point. Right follow the road. This looks familiar – this year or last? Now it was quite dark but with the white road I could make my way. I followed the same road and reach the same olive grove so I knew I had gone too far. Back track to a point I could see anchor lights. The same lights the same bay? No more lights a different bay. Only one way to find out. Head off down the hill side. After a short time I came out in an olive grove which had the same feel as the last but on this occasion I could see the an anchor light. Again the last 100 meters was thick bush but this time it was pitch dark and raining. I took my time and struggled through the undergrowth only to come out on the same beach as before. Ok back along the dirt track to the start point. I was now getting cold and my feet were sore in the wet dockshoes. The thought of the warm sleeping bag on Charlie Girl was tempting.
Right, start at the beginning. Think what you did last time and take the right turns this time. As I passed a house with a high wall I thought the entrance led to the front door but not wanting to miss an opportunity I took this turn. No front door just the correct path I had taken earlier in the afternoon. There was the pile of stones, now look for the mud puddle. Well it had gone replaced by a flowing stream. I head off down the slope and even in the darkness I knew I was on the right track. After a few minutes I was on the beach and there was the RIB securely tied to a tree. I was off to the dark outline of Malua in the distance. I climbed aboard, took off my wet jacket and stepped fully clothed into the bathroom to turn on the hot shower while I undressed and started to warm up. Was I pleased for the shower and to be home in my own bed.
The fleet is in port
2010-05-23
I decided to go into the harbour of Kalimamos quite early in the afternoon. I had had a great sail from Meganise but the weather was still overcast and slight rain was still falling. The harbour is quite narrow with a newish breakwall. The pilot warned that there were rocks on the inside of the wall and caution should be used when going stern too the breakwall. I decided I would go bow too and drop my kedge anchor in the harbour and run the rode from the stern. The bow would be against the breakwall and hopefully the keel would be far enough off the wall to clear the rocks. I lined up the position on the wall went ahead and threw the anchor off the stern. Everything went according to plan and I was tied up and welcomed before I knew it.
Soon after securing myself a small wooden yacht entered the harbour and decided to repeat my mooring technique. His approach run was not well executed because it started well over my anchor line. When he threw his anchor over the stern it was well over my anchor rode. I pointed this out to him however his response was: he had not yet let go the rode so it was not across my anchor. Was I just stupid and he knew what he was doing. I watched as they secured their little vessel bow to the break water about six boat widths from Malua.
The fleet then started to enter the harbour. Sailing Holidays flotilla of 14 boat started to come into port. The first vessel dropped their stern anchor alongside mine and came up to the breakwater bow first, just on my port side. It was executed perfectly under the guidance of the fleet leader, a competent Kiwi. The next vessel repeated the manoeuvre, then the next and again the next. By the time the space was filled between Malua and the tiny wooden boat six anchor rodes had crossed his anchor. At which point he could take it no more and approached the fleet leader complaining. I must say I could not hold back repeating his words back to him that he knew what he was doing and was he in fact stupid to position is anchor blocking the mooring for six vessels. The fleet leader assured him come the morning all would be sorted.
He left before the fleet left port untangling his rode by using his RIB.
I must say the fleet leader did an excellent job in getting all the fleet into the small port without a single raised voice.
Doing Time
2010-05-26
Denny left Sydney yesterday and is currently in Dubai waiting for the connection to Athens. I have been sailing in the Ionian or more exactly laying at anchor. The above picture is just one of the anchorages I stopped at called I think Port Atheni. I had sailed from the mainland at a great place Astakos. Very few boat visit the harbour and the town reflects it. The people are friendly, The shopkeeper helpful. I stocked up on provision, fruit and veg plus a new phone card to access the internet. This year I have not used free WiFi but the 3G phonenetwork to access the internet. The access is great quick and available almost anywhere and at any time.
Sawdust and Shavings
2010-06-05
Today Malua looked like it was back in the back garden. It was covered with sawdust and shavings. WhenI built Malua I was aware that home builders spend an extrordinary amount of time putting the finishing touches to their driem boat. Some do it because it is their dream and when they finish it will become their reality while others dont want to stop because they fear the sailing and unknown more than the challenges in the workshop. I knew that the first was very real so I completed the major items on the to-do list then set a date to launch. I also wanted to go sailing for the summer. The to-do list is still incomplete however having launched in Preveza and a few days before Denny arrived I thought now was a good time to put a line though a few items.
Above the navigation pod is an open space which should be closed wiith a cover. A quite noticable area. I went into the wood store in one of the cupboards and retrieved the chosen piece of maranti, fired up the generator and cut the piece to size with by jigsaw. Then out with the sander and plane to get it smooth. Then more sanding the navigation pod and before I knew it Malua was covered in sawdust and shavings. Just like the old days but this time it had to start cleaning it up immediatly because Denny was due on board in a few days.
After a few coats of varnish and a bit of epoxy glue the new shelf was put in place. Nextt the good clean up and Malua was again in Bristol fashon,
Strait of Messina
2010-06-08
The Strait of Messina separate Sicily from mainland Italy. It has been feared my many marinas since the time of Odysseus who lost six of his men to a giant octopus who guarded the shore. He did not fare well after passing south through the striat because his mast fell down killing his helmsman.
Malua set off at 4:00am in the dark from Naxos which is the bay south of the town of Taomina which was made known by James Michner in his book of the '70 The Drifters. We have now visited all the towns in the book and travelled the same route the group followed in our VW during 1974.
We had timed our departure to get a north flowing tide through the strait. It worked and we had a great run north up to the port of Messina when the south flowing tide and westerly wind caught us. From the above picture one can see the turn of the tide or the infamous whirlpool ready to turns your ship around or suck it into the depths. Nothing happened!
The swordfish of Sicily which we eat on our last visit to the island in 2007 migrate through the straits of Messina. Unlike the eastern Sicilian fisherman who catch the fish in nets the ones in this strait follow them in boats with a 10 foot height mast with two men at the top spotting the fish. When they get close a crew member run out along an equally long bowsprit with a harpoon and spears a swordfish who is sleeping on the surface drifting with the current. We saw three boats but nobody on the bowsprit so the fish must have got away.
On exiting the Strait we had a decision to either head NW to the Eolian Island (Volcano) or more north to Tropea. The wind made the decision so we sailed north in 15 knots of wind to the Marina at Tropea. After washing Malua off with the fresh water in the marina we climbed the 204 steps up the cliff to the town of Tropea. I had spent my 2007 birthday in the town. Unfortunately we had to move north so the excellent dinner could not be repeated.
Amalfi Tourist Experience
2010-06-09
Malua cruised into Amalfi for the second time while in the Med. This is positively the best place on the Italian coast. Not is it beautiful and full of history and culture but the wine and food is good. We stopped in at a very upmarket restaurant to celebrate my birthday and enjoyed the experience more than usual.
The next day instead of walking in the hills we took the bus to Positano and had our lunch overlooking the beach. We decided to take the boat back to Amalfi. Tourist style.
That evening Assie friends from Vos dropped by for a sundowner.
Today we are off to Capri for another tourist experience
Sardinia Crossing
2010-06-15
While cruising in the Med there are always a few wide open spaces, blue in the charts that have to be crossed. From Greece to Sicily and now from Italy to Sardinia. As always it involves a night passage. Fortunately it is no more than a day or two so a good watch system does not have to be set up just choose your weather.
We left the mainland of Italy, that is to say the Island of Capri to sail to wards Pnza a small island off the coast as a stageing post. We had visisted it in 2007 so knew the anchorage and the facilities. It is beautiful, the supplies adequate and the most important the holding is good. Of course the wind was from the wrong direction and chose to blow into the protected anchorage but it was from the South East. The right wind for the crossing.
We downloaded the GRIB files and studied the strength and direction then chose two days hence to leave at a respectable time to arrive at our destination during the day.
On checking the newer files at sunset the day before the situation had changed. The final stages of the crossing were going to be windy. Solution leave early.
Up at first light. No wind so we motored out of Ponza and continued that way till well into the afternoon when a reasonable breeze came through aft of the beam.
Up with the reacher – the large blue and white sail that billows out front pulling us along and a great speed. Denny and I settled down to a lovely sail as the sun set. It was going so well be started dinner.
After only a few hours and right when one reaches the last and best part of any meal the wind died and I had to rush forward and snuff the big ballooner. Oh well there will be another day.
Back to motoring into the clouded sky and black of the night.
Denny called me at 2:00 am asking to analyse the many spots on the radar. Three vessels all seemed to be converging with one astern in a rain squall. No risk but an experience shared not stood alone at the helm.
At 4:00 just as it was getting light – I cant say the sun was rising because we have not seen the sun all day since. The rain came down and the ferries and cruise ships came at us from all sides. As is the case with all landfall this season the wind rose. Fortunately from astern but at 30 knots I thought is prudent to take a reef in. Well not one but two. It went well and I was concentrating on the job at hand and did not notice the large ferry not half a mile away. I must say I was pleased with the speed of Malua through the water, down wind as I put distance between us only to be confronted by another ferry off the starboard bow. I switched on the motor to get us above 8.5 knots to pass infront of their bow.
The prospect of a secure anchorage looked good as we sailed into Porto Rotondo and dropped the anchor along side a few 70 ft yachts.
Another crossing another experience. Great.
Rock and Roll in Bonifacio
2010-06-30
The straits of Bonifacio are famous for bad weather and rough seas, so any marina who attempts to cross them does so with care. We were due to be in Ajaccio 60 nm north of Bonificia so we set off at first light about 4:30 am with little breeze, of couse on the nose. The went well and we made good progress along the coast past the first then the second cape. As we sailed north we noticed other vessel heading north. They all looked as if they had a purpose. We had decided to call it a day in a large bay of Propriano and pick up a mooring buoy or drop the anchor in the Bay of Porto Pollo. Well before the sun set we picked up the second last mooring buoy and snuggled down for the night. The wind had risen to 20 knots as predicted. The swell was slightly on the beam so it started to roll early on in the night.
By midday the following day the swell had risen the wind dropped and we were rolling from side to side. We went ashore to try and get some stability and normality. What a relief to sit under a tree.
Returning to the boat we settled down for the night on the floor of the cabin – the only place that had little movement and was safe.
The following morning could not dawn quick enough. While we slept it was not comfortable. We set sail for Ajaccio and rounded the Cape Muro with swell at least 15 meters. The wind was on the beam so we sailed in to the bay and dropped the anchor near the gas terminal buoys.
What a passage through the straits of Bonificia which lived up to its name.
Corsican Wedding
2010-06-30
The purpose of this summers cruise was to attend the wedding of my best friend Richard's son John who is marring a Corsican girl. Her family comes from the main mountain town of Corte where the grandmother still runs a hotel and other enterprises.
We received the wedding invitation in three languages, English, French and Corsican. This set the tone of the celebrations. The first event was a serenade of the groom of the bride outside the door of her house. Today South African boys don't sing so he got a band of local singers to take his place, the home is transferred to grandmother's hotel and rather than a private affair guest are invited. The singing was beautiful and at the appropriate moment the bride opened the door and the singers entered to continue the singing well into the night.
The following day we all assembled at the hotel we were staying in and boarded a road train to be taken to the Municipal offices for the official legal ceremony. The Mayor in all his robes and chains was in attendance along with six witness who all had to sign, with flourish in the appropriate place. The wedding party was then presented with the official wedding documents.
Now off to the church.
The brides family had been married in this church going back eight generations. Some tradition. The ceremony was in French, Corsican and for us foreigners parts in English. In the middle of the ceremony the thunder started and just before the wedding vows the heaven opens and the rain came down. Thankfully the roof did not leak. Local tradition states that the rain washes away the past and the bride and groom start a new life wash of the past.
By the time the wedding couple had to leave the church the rain had almost stopped and we were able to throw rice and paper hearts over them as they departed. then the drive back down to the coast for the reception at the most upmarket seaside restaurant.
Lights Camera Action
2010-07-11
So started the reception of the wedding we were attending in Corsica. It had been planned to the last degree by an adoring father for his beautiful daughter who was getting married to a heart surgeon. The wedding took place in the church where eight generations of the father's family had been married. He chose the best restaurant on the coast close to Ajaccio fortunately owned by a family member then appointed his local Toulon caterers to do the food. He had shipped in all the wine and champagne from France and stocked the restaurants cellar.
After the wedding we all got into cars and drove from Corte in the mountains down to the coast. We had to get back on Malua and motor down the coast to anchor off the restaurant. The sun was setting as we let the hook go not 100 meters off the beach. We took the RIB ashore and put our long pants on before walking up the beach to the reception which was well under way. People were standing around drinking and eating snacks of fois gras, Palma ham, cheese and other exotic things.
We then adjourned inside to be seated at tables named after islands, ours – Maldives. The place setting had a island setting with beautiful napkin rings, name places in the shape of ships and wine and glass of the best quality.
The menu was outstanding see link http://www.john-and-katia.gettingmarried.co.uk/Menu.htm
We started with quails breast on a bed of palm heart with saffron. What a wonderful taste. We were all guessing what the base was because it is so different. Next came on huge white plates the best fillet steak I have ever tasted. The kitchen prepared them in relays so each table got their serving at the same time. Unfortunately for us the father of the bride was giving his speech while we were easting and his presentation was so good you had little time to enjoy the food. Being in Corsica he had to speak French and then translate for us foreigners. He was good and the works so touching.
The rest of the nigh seemed to fly past so fast that before we knew it the wedding cake was before everybody and was cut. So different.
Dancing followed then singing and so it went until my feet hurt so much I just had to sit down. The bus had arrived to ferry the guest to their hotels so we walked down the beach to the RIB and returned to Malua to listen to the music carry over the water as the part went on till down.
What a wonderful time. If you wrote a film script you could not have got a better outcome.
West coast of Corsica Cruising Delights
2010-07-15
Corsica has always been bypassed by many cruising yachts because they believe that it is not the place to cruise and it is windy. Let it stay that way and the adventurous shall have it to themselves.
Well we where introduced to the wind the day we crossed the Strait of Bonificia on our way north to Ajaccio. We had visited Bonifacio in 2007. The wind had been forecast to blow at more than 25 knots. So we set off at dawn and chose a sheltered bay as our destination. It was a great sail but the wind started to rise as we neared our destination late in the afternoon. We picked up one of the many free moorings and settled down for the night and the wind did blow for three days. Not as high as forecast but blow it did. What was astonishing was the swell that accompanied it. In our case we were in a bay and the swell came round the point and caught us on the beam. It was not nice. In fact it was so bad we had to sleep on the floor. When we ventured out the swell was still rolling in from Spain. It was like sailing in the southern ocean again. Up, up you would go then top the swell and down, down again. We had only planned a short passage into the bay of Ajjaccio but it was long enough. Fortunatly the bay is well sheltered and the roll went away.
From past posts on this site we had a great time at the Corisican wedding.
We spent more than a week sailing around the bay of Ajjaccio and anchoring off points and bay. It is wonderful, clear water, long beaches and good holding.
We started to sail north past Capo di Feno and into the Golfe de Sagone. Here again there are buoys but we anchored off the beach. The next day it was on to the twin Greek and Cathlic chuch town of Cargese. Each church stand opposite one another. A relic of the past when the Greeks where imported to start a colony but the local Coriscans did not like the hard working Greek imports! How things have changed.
From there it is north to the red stones of the Golfe do Porto and Golfe de Galeria. The latter reminded me of the coast of Tasmania with the rocks rising straight up out of the crystal clear blue water. We spent more than a week just moving from one small bay to the next, sometimes with other yachts but generally on our own as the sun set.
Calvi was the next major stop. The home of the winged dagger of the French Foreign Legion. Having served alongside one of their number I have respect of that unit. He was a large mean soldier who could run all day without a break but always ready to helped his lesser mortals (I remember you – Silva). We visited the port and the castle built on the promontory and looked at the display of the units equipment and memorabilia of their time in Africa and other places. It reminded me of the South African units motto "He who dares wins"
We picked up a buoy and paid the 30 Euro for the night but next day anchored way down the beach for a quiet night before proceeding north to the friendly town of Ile Rousse where we anchored off the beach. We took the RIB ashore and as we were securing it a friendly fellow asked us to let his lines in an accent that was not French. He turned out to come from Eden just a few miles down the coast from Malua Bay our home port. he is the deck hand on a vessel anchored just off our stern. It is his first season and he was enjoying the trill of the adventure despite the long hours.
We stayed a few day at Ile Rousse not only to watch the football but to renew the Orange contract to access the internet. A requirement these days.
In summary: The west Cost of Corsica has the best cruising grounds we have visited in the Med IF the weather is good. The town are cultured, the supermarkets so well stocked it is a delight to give your euros away. the shops and people friendly. The greatest cruising in four years. Only another week and we will have to move on.
Blue water, White Sand, Hot Sun
2010-07-20
What more could a cruiser want than the above. Some would say a bit of wind. Well it came through yesterday as we deceided to leave the great anchorage of Plage de Saleccia and sail the short distance to Saint Florent. This beach is a wide open white sanded beach which is not accessable by road so those on the beach have either come by boat, which most do or have walked a few kilometers to get to the beach. It has some history in that it was the site for the shooting of one of the first great war movies The Longest Day with Robert Mitchem. I remember it well for it set the standard for blood and guts and relistic beach scenes of the Normandy coast. The only problem for me is in the movie the real water must have been 10 degrees – well yesterday the water temperaturee was 28 degrees C. Almost too hot to swim.
We anchored off the beach in three meters of water and a big yacht came and anchored right in front of us. A good ditance off. Later in the day two fellow came swimming by speaking english. They stoped to say hi and we found out that the owner of the yacht is an art dealer who had done quite a lot of business with the Australian National museum in Canberra.
The water colour over the white sand is indiscribable so I have just included a picture. The sunset beautiful as the water settles to a mirror for the night. The one thing is the humididt which reaches well over 75% during the evening and morning. I sit here down below dripping persperation. The only releaf is to swim and then take a fresh water shower or you just sit in a pool of water.
Back to the wind. We upped anchor and motored off to the wide deep bay of Golfe de Saint Florent and noticed some small waves in the distance. As always the wind was on the nose but before one could say "up sails" the wind was blowing 25 knots. At that seep we sail faster than we can motor so up sail with one reef and the small stay sail. We set off accross the bay at more than 7 knots to wards the mountains. We were about two miles off when then the wind appeared to change direction and we fell into a hole. No wind. It had completely disappeared. on with the motor but leave the sails up because we saw other yachts heeling over in the distance.
We were soon back in the breeze and cruising along at a nice pace. Oh how great it is to sail onece in a while.
We arrived at Saint Florent with just 8 knots of wind and down went the anchor in a large bay – mud so no moving is the wind came up. The off to town to get a bottle of the local Rose wine to go with the chicken.
Sunset and a calm hot night. Just another beautiful day.
Mediterranean Cruisers Net
2010-07-26
The Mednet as it is known to the cruising yachts in the Mediterranean is an institution to those in the know. It is a network (talkshow to landlubbers) run on the SSB HF radio on Frequency 8122Khz at 07:30 Italian time.
I first heard the Mednet when we entered the Med on April 2007 and have follow it every summer since then. A netcontroller introduces the Mednet then asks for vessels to check in giving their boat name, crew names, location and weather. On good days when the propagation is clear the netcontroller can get up to 25 boats checking in, ranging from the Eastern Med near Egypt to the far western Med of Spain. We have even had a few boats give us a call from the Bay of Biscay west of Portugal.
It is great fun to follow the people that check in day after day as they cruise in a particular sea either along the Turkish coast or on their way to Venice or wherever. The purpose of the net is to to share information with other cruisers and to find out where your friends are. This has been moderately successful because people are generally careful with their advice over the air however this year the netcontrollers decided to change the format and drop the formal reading of the weather and ask for more information to be shared. I am the Netcontroller on Tuesday. The fellow who does Monday has been able to get people to share such a lot of information that we are now starting to reach our goal. Some days it is good other not so good but we all listen even if the noise from the radio drowns out the people talking. (only one at a time)
The other benefit of the Mednet is that one comes to know the peoples' voices that checkin each day to such an extent that you feel you actually know them. We have cruised the length and breadth of the Med over the last four years and have only actually crossed paths and met four vessel that check in to the Mednet. Last week we cruised into a anchorage on the south coast of Elba and there right in the middle of the bay was the yacht Threshold. The crew had checked-in this summer and I had come to recognize their voices. It was an absolute delight to actually meet the crew of this great vessel. The conversation started as if we had last seen then that morning on the Mednet. In fact we have now sailed together for almost a week, enjoying their company more than somewhat. The great advantage of the Mednet.
Elba
2010-08-04
Both Nelson and Napoleon visited Elba. Napoleon stayed only a few months but has left his mark although not much remains of his except the two villas. The best at Palazzina dei Mulini which is on the hillside overlooking the entrance to the harbour of Portoferraio. I found his military camp bed the most interesting item. Made from steel with ornate silver add-ons plus a canopy. The whole thing dismantled into two round leather containers which some unfortunate solder would have had to carry. The rest of the object OK but the location wonderful. The balance of the island hasn't much history as far as I could see.
We arrived at Elba from the Island Capraia and anchored in the Gulf de Campo right next to Threshold. The next day we took the local bus clockwise round the island visiting Marciana which has the best icecream on the island made by the owner of the shop right in front of your eyes. From there to Marciana Marina then back to Marina di Campo. A good days land travel.
We sailed anticlockwise to Azzurro past the old iron ore mines right on the coast and anchored in the bay. Not good holding for the wind came up and the yachts where dragging their anchors, one crossed our chain and we were dragging next to him. After some good anchor practice (four attempts) one to get out of the way of a large stink boat who picked up some chain and spent half a hour disentangling their anchor. We finally put ours down which was to hold for four days while we toured the island by bus. Right to the north of the island and to Portoferraio.
We spent a few days at Golfo del Viticcio while the calm weather lasted and swam in the warm water. Elba ha some charm being covered in trees and mountainous but not the great attraction the guide books claim and Nelson was right he would not like to see the island again (or was that Corsica?)
Passagemaking
2010-08-04
There are some passages you wished you had never started. Things don't go according to plan. Some the wind turn and comes on the nose so you spend most of the time beating into the wind or at least motoring into some choppy sea while others the wind and sea come up and you feel you should just turn back – you never do.
Our 89nm passage from Elba to La Spezia started just after first light. It is a long distance to travel in a single day. Most people do an overnighter of it or in fact break it into two however with a strong west wind the East coast of Italy in this area is very exposed with few if any places of refuge, so we decided that the wind was from behind and we would sail the full distance on pleasant seas to make a safe landfall in a sheltered bay of La Grazie.
The wind started from the south at about 10 knots which is just beautiful sailing breeze right from behind. The sea was flat and we were rolling along at just over seven knots. Ideal. Then the wind started to increase and the cloud bank ahead of us indicated a cold front approaching. I took the first reef in the main when the apparent wind over the deck was touching 20 knots. Not a minute too soon as I again turned to head north with the wind behind us it reached well over 30 knots true wind but the sea had started to build. We were surfing down the short swell making great time for our destination. Then the front passed over us with the few drops of rain, The wind dropped and then rose again from the west. Still sailing wind from a reasonable direction. One reef and staysail was by now the order for the day however the waves were coming from all directions and Malua was just keeping dry above the confused sea. The waves could not make up its mind which way the swell should roll in from. Not good sailing! A second front approached and passed over us at about 1500 and the wind moderated but we could see the wind in the west.
We finally made it into La Spezia bay as it was getting dark and dropped the anchor in 10m of water in a calm bay of la Grazie. Then the storm really started. From out of the surrounding mountain the lightening and thunder came, followed by a down pore typical of the tropics. Thankfully the wind was only mild and the rain gave Malua a good wash.
That days passage is one I don't wish to repeat soon not for the wind but as always for the swell and rock and roll waves.
Cinque Terre
2010-08-04
These are the five lands, actually hamlets clinging to the rock face perched above a splendid sea. So quote the guide books. The villages are just badly located as fishing villages. Riomaggiore has a small harbour, Manarolo the harbour so small they take the boats out of the water and store them on the precious land. If the west wind comes up they cant land and have to haul the boats into the air by crane. Corniglia is high above its small inlet called a harbour and Vernazza has some protection. The final town we visited is Monterosso has no protection at all with a gravel beach accessible only by paying some money.
Well what is the attraction to make millions of tourist visit these small town each year. it is the scenic walk along the cliff tops between the towns. That most good trampers do is take the train from La Spezia and stop at Riomaggiore having purchased a train and park access ticket for 8 euros. From the start the first leg to Manarola is only 1km which will take only 20 minutes. This is just a warm up run to get you into the swing of things. Any one can do this section.
The next from Manorola to Corniglia is the same distance of 1km but will take the average person 1h 10m. It is interesting and worth the walk especially the lovers section where poeple leave a lock attached to something.
Now starts the real "walk". The distance is 4km but will take you 1h 30m if you are super fit. Let me tell you not many people do it in that time especially if undertaken on a hot summers day at noon. It starts up the road out of town then goes through the olive grove round a valley, then up to the crest and then down along the face of the mountain side. Just when you think you can go no further some fellow will arrive from the opposite direction and ask "how far have you come?" Your return question get a response "Oh about 40 minutes – all up hill" Well that's great it is now down hill all the way. Wrong. Yes generally down and you know how hard it is to step down on uneven steps which may slide away from you at any time. Frequent stops, lots of water and two strong knee joints are essential for this section.
The next is only 3 miles but the guide book suggest it will take 2 hours – a half hour longer than the last 3km section. just imaging how tough that would be. We took the sensible option and jumped on the train to the fifth town of Monterosso. Here we walked along the promenade and took the train back to La Spezia. Having cooled off by now we took the number 3 bus to our stop on Garibaldi for the bus back to La Grazie. No touring for us tomorrow, a layday to get over the stiff muscles.
Potofino
2010-08-09
Portofino is almost too beautiful for its own good. When one walks the harbourside quay you will be rubbing elbows with day-trippers, the Italian industrialists, celebrities, the motor yacht fraternity and a lot of rich but not so famous folk who consider this little town the epicentre of the good life. The late afternoon is the time to arrive which we did after a gentle stroll from where we had anchored Malua in the bay of Santa Margherita. The daytime crowd has left either in the bus or on the many day ferries plying their trade up and down this beautiful coast. At this time there are a few people in the harbourside bars preparing for the night's dining at the local restaurants.
We chose the La Gritta American Bar. A famous writer called this bar "the nicest waterfront bar this side of Hong Kong" The prices where nice all right the drink selection apart from cocktails poor. A range of champagnes, cocktails starting at 18 euro, bottles of wine starting at 34 euro and two types of beer at 8 euro for a 250ml served I might say in a warm glass which you could not get a head from the beer! The balance to that were the snacks – at least 8 different types ranging from chips right to carrots and halved small tomatoes. Along with the good services comes the view, and what a view. While were sipped our drinks three super mega yachts went astern into the quay. The smallest called "My Toy" while the largest, "One More Toy", came complete with a jacuzzi on the top deck along side a treadmill and exercise bike and bar! The rich or is it their parents or friends stepped ashore to walk along the dock to a preselected restaurant for a night of the good life.
After our two drinks we walked up the side streets to catch the last bus back to Santa Margherita to dingy back to Malua for some real beer and a wonderful meal looking at the guests at the water front hotels of the Continetal and Imperiale. Not a hard choice as to which side of the view I would like to be. Tomorrow we walk the trails to the San Fruttuoso cove.
Dark clouds, strong wind and rock n roll
2010-08-17
Every sailor enjoys down wind sailing, with the wind slightly behind the beam, true wind of about 10 to 15 knots and a smooth sea. Malua set off from Santa Margherita in overcast weather and little wind. We followed the coast past Portofino and the cove of San Fruttosa and set our course for across the Bay of Genoa. The wind started to come through from 120 from the bow and settled down at about 10 to 14 knots true. We soon had the blue and white reacher up and were sailing along at just over 7 knots. The only sound was the ripple of the wake as we picked up speed to over 7 knots every so often. Ahead was the 52ft catamaran Gone with the Wind who also had their reacher up. For three hour this continued. A sailors dream but ahead the dark storm clouds were building. I expected the wind to increase or drop away altogether and change direction. The boat ahead was a indicator of what we can expect so I was able to keep the reacher flying longer than expected. Eventually the wind died and we had to put the engine on and motor the last few miles to Loano.
With a stern anchor we had a reasonable night but the swell started to build. The forecast indicated a north wind that evening reaching well over 20 knots then swinging to the south with an increase in speed. We only had 15 miles to run so entering the Marina Imperia was an easy decision. The management said take any berth on pier T would be suitable as it was a new marina only opening a few months previously. With only two boats on the dock the choice of 19 others was easy. We had just secured Malua and closed the hatches when the wind started. It continued through the night but in the morning the rain came. A heavy down pour accompanied the wind. It continued all day, rain, rain and more rain. By this time the wind had moved from the north to the west and then to the south, finally to die in the east as the front moved further up the coast. Malua had received the best wash of the season, the dingy was full of water and the water tanks were full of the gift of the gods.
The next day dawned with the wind reaching 20 knots even before the sun was up. It continued all day reaching its peak in the afternoon with a few gusts well over 30 knots. It is at times like these that you are pleased you made the decision to enter the marina no matter the cost. Snug and cosy, secure to a dock and warm in bed at night.
Having spent two days in the marina we decided we should move along further west along the Italian Riviera towards San Remo. The marina was calm and flat but as we put our nose outside the break wall we could feel the effects of the two days of wind. The sea was up and confused. We put Malua's bow into the apparent sea and put the throttle down but we could only make 4.2 knots as the bow would be buried in the back of every second wave. Turning off the wave only increased the rock n roll. After the 12 miles of this sea we were pleased to go stern too at a public quay in San Remo harbour and get out of that unpleasant experience. Enough of this dark clouds and rock n roll.
High Rollers, Rolls and Roar of the engine
2010-08-22
Monaco or Monte Carlo is the place for high rollers, Rolls, the roar of Ferrari engines and other forms of visible wealth. We on the other had sat outside the Casino and had a drink to watch the world go by expecting to see a high roller or someone famous. Not a chance just the wanna bees and the people who stood and watched. We did sit beside a fellow who was greeted by two rather wealthy old gentlemen one of which stated that he was closing the branch down because it was loosing money. Where I know not but it didn't sound as if he was a high roller or getting into one of the many super sports cars parked in front of the Casino.
We did not roll the car out the back of Malua when we moored stern too at Fontvielle but purchased a day pass on the bus and rode the three line from end to end. Monaco is much smaller then I expected. The marina does have a number of large super motorboats but does not have the number of sailing boats one expects. The number of shots far exceeds anyones expectations and the goods in show are just over the top. The window of Cartier was filled with diamonds and more diamonds in lovely settings. Unfortunately the bracelet Denny liked would have had to be enlarged and would not be ready for this evenings dinner date so we let it pass. Another time perhaps.
The Aquarium is out of this world with two floors of fish tanks ranging from schools of fish right down to the smallest sand worm. They draw the water from far out to sea into the tanks so each creature get fresh water however some tanks have to be heated to suit their natural environment.
The Princesses Grace rose garden was good and very well designed and set out and compares well with the Australian old Parlement house garden. The Hughes house garden comes in third.
After two days, two cocktails sessions at the Hotel de Paris, a great meal overlooking the Marina and a number of bus rides we decided to move along. To a bay north of Monaco within sight of Italy so our phone connection can pick up the Internet and we can follow the Australian general election. No clear result.
Big Towns, Big Names and Big Numbers
2010-09-01
Summer in the French Riviera has just big towns, Monte Carlo, Nice, Antibes, Canne, Frejus, St Tropez (the last four are in fact in the Cote D'Azur) associated with the big names of the film stars and celebrities. We saw the towns but not the big names. The town each have a certain charm about them and each have some unique feature which makes it worthwhile to visit them but when all is said and done they look very similar and the retail section repeats itself time after time. We tend to stay out of the marinas with Malua and anchor in a bay nearby and take the RIB into the marina or to a beach on a bus route to the centre. The museum of Henri Matisse in Nice was very good indeed because it showed his work during his stay in this particular villa Cimiez with is muse. The Antibes museum of Pablo Picasso also covered the period of his live while he lived in the area also with a muse Francoise Gilot. I liked the painting of The Goat and the large collection of plates with faces painted on them.
Iain visited Canne to see the film festival site and the hand prints but we justed stayed away and took a long walk on the Ille Saint Marguerite. It is a beautiful island which has been retained as a nature park. The water around the island are shallow and afford good anchorages so the Sunday night we arrived it was filled to capacity however as they left to return to their home marinas we moved closer in shore and a better location. The next day we walked the perimeter of the island and stopped off at the Fort Royal. It housed "the man in the iron mask" I must say its bare courtyards and cold cells must have made it a very unpleasant place. Today it has a maritime museum which has a relics of a Roman galleon very well preserved and presented. It well worth a visit.
Tomorrow we visit Port de Fejus but like the other famous names John is not in town to meet us so we will have to cruise down to St Tropez to see if we can catch the last of the big names before everything shuts at the end of summer for September is upon us and the chilly winds of the north have started to blow and the last bus leaves at 6:30 pm. Winter has arrived.
Toulon, French Navy and the Mistral
2010-09-15
Toulons all round anchorage has long been the harbour of choice to shelter from the winter storms or as in our case the strong Mistral wind. We entred after a night at the open anchorage on the Porquerolles and looked at an anchorage recommended by a fellow cruiser but it turned out to be too shallow for us so we headed off to the Darse Vielle marina to find a safe spot. As we entred the port we were greeted by nine warships on the horizon doing naval exercises plus inumerable others tied up at the naval dockyard of Toulon. It has been a harbour for centuries but the navies refuge since 1610. In 1793 the young Napoleon Bonapart, an artilary officer who forced the British to withdraw from their fort on the hill. After this success he was made brigadier general which started his military career. The harbour has been expanded since those times and now is the centre of the French Mediterranean fleet. We saw them loading white UN amared personel carriers and light tanks onto a large transport ship just outside the marina entrance.
The Old port marina is rather run down but in the best part of town so we checked in and tied uo stern too next to a British Moody 38. It turned out they and a similar vessel in the marina had just traversed the French canals this last summer and had their masts stepped at Port Napolion where Malua is to spend the winter.
I was woken on the first night as a thunder storm came over us and heavy rain started to fall. Fortunatly we had closed all the hatches and portlights before it started. I was standing in the companionway listeming to the thunder when I heard a freight train approach. It was only seconds away then Malua, and all the other boats around us lurched to starbord the jumped to port. Our rail was almost under the water. Malua was throun backwards and hit the dock with a thud. The wind then changed direction and came from the north west with 35 knots strength. It was awsome. People say whenyou hear the train the wind is over 50 knots. Well the way it tossed Malua about I would say it was well over that measure. Fortunatly Malua was not badly damaged so we just took in a few more inchs of line and wated for the rain to stop which it did soon afterwards however the wind continued for two days at well over 25 knots. Good decision to come into the marina.
While the wind was still blowing we visited the naval museum, the markets and rode the buses back and forth around the city. Not much to see but a great feel to the place especially the fountains and the markets. We stocked up on food at the Carrefour for the last stretch of our journey before hauling out for the winter.